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Routes in PSOM Slab

Anger Management S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breaking & Entering T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Deal Breaker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Sale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
High Life, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
John Fischer Memorial Route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lawbreaker S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lizard Gizzards S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters Of Choss T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Negotiator, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
PBR Street Gang T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PSOM Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polish Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty New Anchor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Racing Lizards T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Errands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Same As It Never Was S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Serious But Not Desperate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Silver Streak T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab-O-Rama S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Slow Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Too Many Rules S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tumbleweed Tales T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown A S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanted Man T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 225 ft, 2 pitches
FA: E. and L. Stefke, Oct 2014
Page Views: 966 total, 26/month
Shared By: old5ten on Oct 26, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Just up the hill from the slab that has 'Digi' but before 'Racing Lizards' is a prominent, 20-30' wide buttress that is flanked by 3rd/4th class gullies on both sides.

'Rattlesnake Errands' takes 2 pitches of slab climbing up the center of the buttress.

P1 - there are three distinct starting variations (see topo pic):
1.) Original (main) start (10a) - after the first bolt continue straight up the slab to the second bolt.
2.) Right start (easy 5th after the initial moves to the first bolt) - after clipping the first bolt continue right and up via big holds in the trough.
3.) Left start (5.8) - after clipping the second bolt move out left to a horn, then go up and right toward the 3rd bolt.

After passing the 3rd bolt go up the slab to the right of the crack past 2 more bolts. Cross the crack (optional sm. TCU/Alien), then go left and up via 3 more bolts (5.8) to the P1 anchor.

P2 - from the P1 anchor go slightly left, then up to a bolt. Continue toward a small orange patch (finger pocket), then go up past a short steeper section (10a) and 3 bolts to a great in-cut rail/stance and horn. Continue slightly right and up to the level of the next bolt, then go left out on the face to a black knob. Follow the slab (5.10b) past four more bolts to an orange colored protrusion. Easier ground past one more bolt leads to the P2 anchor.

This route is similar in character to 'Silver Streak' - technically maybe a tad easier, but much more sustained on the 2nd pitch.

Location

This route is on the prominent buttress between 'Your Mother Was A Hamster' and 'Racing Lizards'

Single 70m rope, 2 rappels

Protection

P1 - 8 bolts and optional sm. TCU/Alien
P2 - 10 bolts

Mussy Hook anchors, single 70m rope

Photos

old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
 
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
 
@beckley - not quite sure what to make of those comments. you only climbed the first pitch, yet you rate the whole route. you didn't use the optional alien placement after the third bolt, hmmm that's funny - the optional alien placement is after the fifth bolt. you led the 3rd pitch (10b/c) on jfmb, but you're scared on the 'short runout' (?) 5.8 upper section on the 1st pitch of rattlesnake errands? you're climbing crumbly edges on an easy 'slab' climb? dhuuude... let's keep it real... May 15, 2017
Jack C. Beckley
arcadia ca
 
Jack C. Beckley   arcadia ca
 
Did this route over the weekend! it defiantly needs more traffic on the first pitch! it was kinda like press and pray that they thin edges didn't crumble beneath your feet. One short runout section in the middle and one towards the top...overall i give the first pitch 1.5 out of 4 stars
I did not use the optional Alien placement....would have helped to bring down the fear after that 3rd bolt May 8, 2017
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10a
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10a
I was pleasantly surprised with the 2nd pitch, enjoyed it very much. But I disagree... ok, good, great and classic should mean the same anywhere you go. I keep seeing all these routes on this site that are being posted as classic, more than half the time they are some 30' choss pile that probably should not have been bolted. As far as Same as it Never was, I tried to onsight it last year and couldn't do it. I can't rate something I haven't done but my impression was it is harder than 11c. I did talk with Darrell and was encouraged to try again but he did say it was probably a sandbag. Feb 1, 2015
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
 
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
 
pdg>good and i think ratings should be relative to other climbs in the area. since i've climbed most of the routes on psom i'd say i agree with your earlier assessment of 2 stars for p1 and 3 stars for p2.

personally i'm not a big fan of the 4-star system, it is too limiting. a 0-10 rating scale would be much better and a 5-star system would be my next choice. anyway, that's a different discussion and in the big picture it doesn't really matter. i figure if i had fun on a climb and/or learned something from doing it then it was worth climbing it.

btw, nice job on the 5tennies you must be ready for 'same as it never was'

in terms of 10a vs 10b i would say 10b is right on the money if we call 'silver streak' and 'unknown a' 10b/c and 10b, the crux moves are about the same and 'rattlesnake errands' is significantly more sustained than either. the slab crux on p1 of 'jfmr' is rated at 10a and is quite a bit easier, so is 'pretty new anchor'.

check out slab-o-rama, too many rules, and lawbreaker at psom, also ripples at crack of noon. let me know what you think. all are fine slab routes. Feb 1, 2015
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10a
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10a
Good is 2 stars, 3 is great. Hard to believe I can lead 10b in my Five-tennies. Feb 1, 2015
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
 
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
 
yes, more traffic!!! if you like slab, the 2nd pitch is pretty darn good...

one way to get around using those friable little flakes is to avoid them, i guess that's where the 10b part comes in ;-) Jan 31, 2015
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.10a
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.10a
P1 direct 5.9 2 stars
P2, 3 stars but overlooking all the loose flakes, the climbing is very cool and continuous. The crux is making one of the clips on the upper slab. Needs traffic. Jan 23, 2015