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Routes in PSOM Slab

Anger Management S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Breaking & Entering T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Deal Breaker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Digi T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fire Sale S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Five Finger Discount T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
High Life, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
John Fischer Memorial Route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lawbreaker S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lizard Gizzards S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Masters Of Choss T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Negotiator, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
PBR Street Gang T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
PSOM Pinnacle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Polish Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pretty New Anchor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Racing Lizards T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rattlesnake Errands S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raw Deal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Same As It Never Was S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Serious But Not Desperate T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Silver Streak T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slab-O-Rama S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Slow Ride T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Too Many Rules S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tumbleweed Tales T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown A S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown B S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanted Man T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Your Mother Was a Hamster T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Greg Barnes, Karin Wuhrmann, Barry Hutten, 5/2003 GU
Page Views: 5,719 total, 72/month
Shared By: liveit P on May 28, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

3 Pitches of fun climbing.

-Pitch one starts in a short wide crack/chimney, then easy 3rd class leads to a slab with one bolt before a straight-in crack.

-Pitch two starts with slab moves protected by 2 bolts, followed by some under-clinging cracks, next comes more slab protected by 2 more bolts, this pitch is finished by a wide easy crack

-Pitch three starts with a high reach to the first bolt, followed by a left arching crack/ under-cling which you move out into one of two wide crack/flares. Head up towards a mini roof protected by a bolt, finish up this slab protected by one more bolt

Rappel route three times with double ropes

Location

Middle of PSOM slab, starts in a bushy crack to the left of PSOM Pinnacle

Protection

Gear to 3" plus 4 draws
phylp
Upland
phylp   Upland
I've done this route 3 times now, using the "Controversial Insert" bolted start, and find it a lot of fun.
My recommended rack would be cams small (#1 Metolius mastercam) to only to 1.75" (#1 BD). Singles would probably be fine but doubles is still a light rack. Most of the placements are in angling flakes and don't take nuts well - I've never placed a nut on this route.

People have mentioned route-finding difficulties on P2 and 3: Although the climbing itself wanders slightly, the 3 bolted anchors are almost a direct overhead line so if you trust this you won't wander too far right or left.

I think this may not the best route for a 5.7 leader. There are some longish runouts on easy ground. Might be spooky to a new leader.

P2 I have done 2 ways. Following the arching flake to its high point and surmounting the roof and then straight up to the mini roof with the bolt, or crossing over at the midway point of the arching flake to a closed groove. The latter way is easier but has less gear. Aug 8, 2016
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
You canNOT rap the first pitch with a 70m unless you are wiling to downclimb the chimney BTW. Found out the hard way. Bring doubles for this route. Oct 13, 2015
Tyler Wick
Bishop, CA
Tyler Wick   Bishop, CA
1st pitch is around 40m. We were able to rap off with an 80m with a few feet to spare. Jun 15, 2015
Muscrat

  5.7
Muscrat    
  5.7
We wonder if you really need to carry gear on this. Placed a .5 and a .75 on the first pitch and a .5 on the second pitch. bolts are good, carry a light rack and have fun, good warm up. Well worth doing, good intro to PSOM. Nov 26, 2014
davefaus
Mammoth Lakes, CA
davefaus   Mammoth Lakes, CA
what's the length of the first pitch? is it possible to lower/rap off the first anchor with a single 70m? Oct 20, 2014
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.7 PG13
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.7 PG13
good route, but a bit contrived on P3. i would not call this a good beginner's route because there is a bit of route finding involved (P3) and the move over the arch on P3 is not well protected. from the top of P3 it is easy to access the 'Silver Streak' anchor, about 25' to the right and slightly lower. Dec 23, 2013
Steve Gomez
  5.7
Steve Gomez  
  5.7
Wish I knew about the bolted 5.8 start before I headed up, regardless it is a good route. Quality rock and would be a good climb for new leaders. Aug 28, 2013
J. Hickok
  5.7
J. Hickok  
  5.7
Not very memorable, as a lot of the climbing is not very remarkable or distinguishable - and there are a myriad of climbing options, amounting to a very wandering route by which many paths will go at or near the 5.7 grade. The rock is mostly good, however, and the crack on P1 is fun and likely well remembered. Mostly just easier slab climbing. Probably a great learning experience for those beginning to place gear more confidently. The "5.8" start felt like 5.7. Aug 15, 2013
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
Single rack to #3 will do just fine. Didn't use doubles or nuts at all.

Fun. Pretty slabby for most of the route. May 6, 2013
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.7
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.7
Took a friend here for the first pitch to teach him some basics this past summer, came back and finished the route as a nice warmup recently.

P1 - The bolted 5.8 variation didn't quite feel 5.8 to me, so don't be spooked off by the grade if you are pushing it or whatnot. Even if you are, the bolts are tightly spaced.

P2 - Slab moves, not very memorable. Nebulous routefinding at times.

P3 - More nebulous routefinding after the cool start near the "roof"

In all, not so sure I would recommend the upper two pitches. And I like slab climbing. First pitch is totally cool though! Mar 24, 2012
Jason Chinchen
Bend, Oregon
 
Jason Chinchen   Bend, Oregon
 
There is now a bolted start to this climb. It starts just right of the low angle gully and ascends the slab on 4 bolts or so to the crack. May 30, 2011
liveit P
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
liveit P   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
Had a blast on this route, great variety of climbing with crack, face, under-clings, liebacks, and even a mini roof that was super easy.

Pitch 1- a bolt has been added below the crack, and was not on the topo, this confused me and I got a little off route, but on easy ground and was able downclimb and start up the crack, which was the highlight of the route for me. Used a draw, #2 Metolius, 2 .5 C4's, and a .75 C4

Pitch 2- The face moves were fun and well protected once you get to the first bolt. The upper face moves and crux was moving from one flare to the other, pretty far above the last bolt, but still not too bad. Upper part in wide crack/flare was fun. Used 4 draws, #3 C4, and a #2 Metolius or blue Alien, i forget.

Pitch 3- The moves above the anchor to get to first bolt were a bit tough for a factor 2 fall, guess I could have thrown in a cam. Past that bolt was very fun, combo of lieback and under cling. This was the routefinding and crux of the route for me. The moves the go right over the mini roof to the flared crack were pretty thin, and i was a few feet above a sketchy blue Alien. I ended up traversing over and back, which worked. Finally I got an OK #1 C4 and spotted the bolt, which was on a short vertical roof and hard to see. Clipped that and shot up to the anchors. ended up using 3 draws, blue alien, #1 C4, and a #2 Metolius i think

This is a great beginner route, as it will teach someone a lot of the aspects of climbing. May 28, 2011