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Early Access
Routes in South Face of Arthur's Rock
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Big, Bad Book T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blackish Blobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corridor Project S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Doom Corner T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Edge Of Time S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Excellent Adventure S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Front Gate T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Goldeneye S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Great Corner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Great Variant, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Intestinal Fortitude S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kiddy Pool S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mono Matt T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Owl Roof S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Right of Passage T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rocksie Rocks S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sunday Morning Coming Down T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sunrise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Sunset (submitted as Mole Rat Crack) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Water Fountain TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.5669, -105.1872 |
| FA: | D. McKee, B. Scott, as an aid route "Late-night Horror Show, A3+", Dave Bohn?, 1973 |
| Page Views: | 1,991 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Scott on Feb 20, 2013 |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Pete Zagorski, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
Per Charlie Martz: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2021: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures starting March 15th from The Great Corner (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunrise. . . and includes the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail.
Per Citsalp: raptor closures (peregrine falcons) are in effect in 2019: the South Face climbing area is impacted by these closures May 15 - July 31 from Blackish Blobs (west side of S. Face) across the South Face to Sunday Morning. . . and these include the top of the rock (above the climbs, not the hike to the "summit") and the descent trail. Other climbing areas should remain open.
Access Issue: 2017 Raptor Closures
Details
Per Rodney Ley 1: as of 21 May 2016, there is a Prairie Falcon (possibly Peregrine) nest with eggs at the top of this route (Sunday Morning Coming Down) area. The Lory State Park staff have placed a "Trail Closed" sign near the approach, but they don't mention it is for raptor protection.
Please avoid until mid-summer, perhaps the park staff will remove the sign when the birds have moved on.
Description
This route was installed thanks to the Arthur's Rock Fixed Anchor Initiative (2013).
Please consult the Lory State Park Rock Climbing guide for more information:
nococlimbing.org/portfolio/…
This is a daunting, two pitch climb right up the heart of the South Face of Arthur’s Rock.
P1: (5.11b) Climb a broken crack system to gain the bottom of a pillar and the first bolt. Continue up the pillar until you reach a left-leaning crack/corner. Continue up the crack placing a #4 Camalot before launching into the bolt protected crux. A short handcrack leads to the anchor from there.
P2: (5.11) Traverse left from the belay and pull the short, roof crack feature. Over the roof, continue moving up and right, following the crack feature to reach the summit.
History
Referred to as the "Old Aid Route" by some people, it was rumored that this was a Mark Wilford route, but it was never confirmed. Apparently a climber named Rob Upton died on this route years ago. There is a plaque on a large boulder near the base of the climb dedicated to him. If you have any other info, please chime in.
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