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Routes in Cedar Rock - Main Wall

Adultery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birthday Bash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caught Up in the Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caught up in the Air Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cedar Blossom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cedar Pie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Common Ground T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Details at Ten T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Ex-squeeze Me T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Happy Camper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy Ending T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I wanna be sedated T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
LeMenestrel Cramps T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Margin of Error T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miracle Whip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Miracle Whip Alt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
New Creature T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Off The Cuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh! Mr. Friction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orangutan Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Passion and Warfare T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pawing the Void S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Petrified Cedar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polliwog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rawhide Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sibling Revelry T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke Hole Weiners T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spirit Stick T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stockings On The Mantle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tadpole Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toads R Us T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Two In Agreement T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unknown 5.5 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wild Ginger Root T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wyoming Dick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown 5.6 center T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown 5.6 right T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
unknown 5.8 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
unknown 5.9- T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Thomas Kelley
Page Views: 644 total, 11/month
Shared By: Phoffmann on Dec 28, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Slightly thuggy with a touch of sharp rock.
Start on the right side of the Caught up in the Air "ledge" at a beautiful left facing crack/corner. Climb the clean corner to a stance at the roof leading to the arch feature. Get in a big piece and finagle your way over the roof into the arch past some questionable rock and a few jams. Get a big piece and jam and layoff the arch to a stance at the end of the feature. Exit left here to the Caught Up anchor or climb to the top of the cliff in one long pitch passing old bolts with gear and new upgraded bolts to the top. Was done originally in two pitches with a one bolt anchor.

Location

In between Caught up in the Air and Wyoming Dick.
Rap the route with two 60m ropes.

Protection

Standard NC Rack up to a #4 BD Camalot.
Bolts

Photos

This route is a glorious, rare splitter in a sea of slab. It protects phenomenally. Only one thing to be aware of: the entire length of crack, at least in the winter, is FULL of Asian Beetles. You can still gently jam, but if you're not in the mood for a shower of bugs or if you have baseball mitts for hands, save this route for spring. Feb 23, 2017
Bennett Anderson
cincinnati, ohio
 
Bennett Anderson   cincinnati, ohio
 
Really great route. Definitely different than your typical Cedar Rock routes. I recommend taping your hands! I exited left to the P1 anchors of Caught Up In The Air which was fun for cragging, I but would like to go back and finish it to the top. Nov 10, 2015
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
  5.10c
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
  5.10c
this is a much overlooked gem. Rock quality is fine albeit gritty. Do it in one pitch for good times. Tops at a ratty sling on a pine tree. Traverse 30 ft left to rap off Caught Up In The Air ( anchors may be hiding behind a small little tree but they are there) May 27, 2013