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Routes in Cedar Rock - Main Wall

Adultery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birthday Bash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caught Up in the Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caught up in the Air Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cedar Blossom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cedar Pie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Common Ground T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Details at Ten T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Ex-squeeze Me T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Happy Camper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy Ending T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I wanna be sedated T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
LeMenestrel Cramps T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Margin of Error T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miracle Whip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Miracle Whip Alt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
New Creature T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Off The Cuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh! Mr. Friction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orangutan Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Passion and Warfare T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pawing the Void S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Petrified Cedar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polliwog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rawhide Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sibling Revelry T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke Hole Weiners T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spirit Stick T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stockings On The Mantle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tadpole Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toads R Us T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Two In Agreement T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unknown 5.5 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wild Ginger Root T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wyoming Dick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown 5.6 center T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown 5.6 right T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
unknown 5.8 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
unknown 5.9- T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 470 total, 10/month
Shared By: Cody Ashe on Feb 23, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

The crux is between the fourth and fifth bolt and is well protected. Very fun route.

Location

Route is almost as far left as you can go on the cliff. Find a big roof and route is just left of it.

Protection

5 bolts. Small cams nuts and tcus. Anchors at the top. Need a 70 meter rope to repel down

Photos

Chris Little here, again. This route, like all the others at Cedar, was bolted on-sight on the first ascent. Some were added later by the people who put them up. It was all done alpine. I just thought that was important. Jul 11, 2017
Ezra Ellis
Hotlanta
 
Ezra Ellis   Hotlanta
 
A good route, a oo metolius tcu protects the exit moves. Nov 15, 2015
The Pilsner Prophet
Albuquerque N.M.
The Pilsner Prophet   Albuquerque N.M.
Mike- The Pilsner Prophet here. Thanks for the nice note. I've been in New Mexico since '96, and my momories of Cedar Rock aren't 100% reliable. I guess I got the chronology about Toads R Us wrong, but I'm sure about my memories of this route. As I recall, when I led the first pitch and put in the bolts, I put one in several inches above the other to facilitate belaying, or I put both in at head height. I hate the rope hanging down when I'm belaying, and having to fight it. I can't remember the second pitch- how the pro was, or anything else but I think it was pretty easy after the first few moves. May 23, 2014
Hey Pilsner Prophet, thanks for all the comments. That sounds like it. The bolts were upgraded to SS a few years ago. Fun route with many little crystals, it deserves a name! May 22, 2014
The Pilsner Prophet
Albuquerque N.M.
The Pilsner Prophet   Albuquerque N.M.
This is the Pilsner Prophet again. I remember doing a route with Steve Lawless at the far left end of Cedar Rock. Could this be it? I remember the ledge at the top of the first pitch. I put in a bolt or two for anchors. I also remember a water groove there. I told Sean about it a week or two later, but I didn't think the route compared to Cedar Pie, Caught up in the Air, or the other top quality stuff there, so I didn't make a big deal about it. Who knows? May 20, 2014