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I wanna be sedated
5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
Routes in Cedar Rock - Main Wall
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Adultery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Birthday Bash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Caught Up in the Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Caught up in the Air Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cedar Blossom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cedar Pie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Common Ground T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Deception in the True Vine **P1 only** T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Details at Ten T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Ex-squeeze Me T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Happy Camper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Happy Ending T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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I wanna be sedated T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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LeMenestrel Cramps T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Margin of Error T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Miracle Whip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Miracle Whip Alt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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New Creature T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Off The Cuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Oh! Mr. Friction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Orangutan Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Passion and Warfare T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pawing the Void S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Petrified Cedar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Polliwog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rawhide Arch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sibling Revelry T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Smoke Hole Weiners T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Spirit Stick T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stockings On The Mantle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tadpole Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Toads R Us T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Two In Agreement T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Unknown 5.5 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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unknown 5.6 center T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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unknown 5.6 right T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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unknown 5.8 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 |
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unknown 5.9- T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Wild Ginger Root T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wyoming Dick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | Eddie Begoon, Tony Barnes |
| Page Views: | 1,603 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Jan 7, 2013 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry |
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Description
Since no one has entered this route yet I figured I would. Anyway, this is one of the best single pitch routes around and should not be missed. Those positive crimps are truly amazing! Most of the climbing is probably in the hard 10, easy 11 range, with a definite crux at the end.
Climb up onto the hollow flake to gain a slab with 2 bolts. Climb the slab on small but positive edges to a small ledge and gear. Continue up past a bolt to another gear placement at another stance. From here it's all bolts to the anchor. The crux is at the last bolt and is best done slightly left. The slab finish isn't hard, just spicy if you aren't expecting it.
Climb up onto the hollow flake to gain a slab with 2 bolts. Climb the slab on small but positive edges to a small ledge and gear. Continue up past a bolt to another gear placement at another stance. From here it's all bolts to the anchor. The crux is at the last bolt and is best done slightly left. The slab finish isn't hard, just spicy if you aren't expecting it.
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