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Routes in Cedar Rock - Main Wall

Adultery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birthday Bash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caught Up in the Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caught up in the Air Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cedar Blossom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cedar Pie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Common Ground T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Details at Ten T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Ex-squeeze Me T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Happy Camper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy Ending T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I wanna be sedated T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
LeMenestrel Cramps T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Margin of Error T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miracle Whip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Miracle Whip Alt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
New Creature T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Off The Cuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh! Mr. Friction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orangutan Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Passion and Warfare T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pawing the Void S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Petrified Cedar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polliwog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rawhide Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sibling Revelry T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke Hole Weiners T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spirit Stick T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stockings On The Mantle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tadpole Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toads R Us T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Two In Agreement T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unknown 5.5 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wild Ginger Root T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wyoming Dick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown 5.6 center T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown 5.6 right T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
unknown 5.8 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
unknown 5.9- T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Clarence Hickman, Mark Pell - 1986
Page Views: 1,021 total, 11/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Jul 5, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is an amazing and long line with great technical slab movement and some spice. Start below the right facing flake with two bolts on the flake. Slab up some sloped ledges to two adjacent right facing flakes that take gear. Plug gear and make some difficult moves up and left to gain the crystal seam below the flake. Plug some big gear in the solution hole and start up onto the flake. Make moves on the flake while clipping bolts (crux). Finish the flake and trend up and right to a large eyebrow. Continue pulling straight up above the eyebrow and follow large features out right. Once you get close to the bolt start trending left to the bolt. Follow good eyebrows slightly up and left, then up and right to the overlap. Pull the overlap and continue another 15' to the bolts.

For the second pitch continue up and right between vertical edges for a short distance. Walk off to the right. Rarely done and doesn't take much gear.

Location

To the right and up the hill from where the trail meets the wall. Look for the obvious flake with two bolts about 30' up. Rappel with two ropes from bolts at the top.

Protection

TCU's, tri-cams, .3-1 Camalots, and a 4 or 5 camalot for the solution hole. Lots of long runners and double ropes are a good option. 2 bolts to a fixed anchor.

Photos

I believe this route's first pitch was initially scoped out by Scrap and Rodney Lanier, and I went with Scrap for the redpoint fa on my very first visit to Cedar. Wow, what an intro. It is harder than it looks and has scared many good climbers. I would call this a 5.10 for 5.11 leaders. Double ropes and a widely-sized, varied rack featuring micro-nuts, many stoppers with doubles in the 1/4-1/2" range, and a wide range of cams with a very large piece as well as some duplicates in the small and medium sizes, are definitely good ideas. Save a 2" cam for high on the middle of the face, well above the bolts. And as with many Cedar routes, it's not wrong to carry a couple of hooks, for opposition and protection too. Trying to follow the bolt line and still find all the best clean gear on the left and right using a single lead rope can be a drag epic without carrying an unusual amount of long and extra-long slings so do not start up on a single unless you've borrowed every long runner you can from your buddies. This route is the first on the right side of the SW face to dry after heavy rain. Mar 18, 2012
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
 
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
 
This climb takes gear just fine, some small some large. Double ropes are optional but could be useful. After the last bolt fire straight up through good eyebrows (save at least 1 red C3/blue tcu) leading to thin edging up to the quartz horizontal. Apr 8, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Tis' the season to tick this bad boy off. Get on this beautiful climb if you haven't done so already. Probably one of the best technical face/slab climbs at 5.10 in NC. Sep 28, 2010