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Areas in Cedar Rock

Cedar Beater (link up) 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cedar Rock - Main Wall 38 / 8 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 40
Cedar Rock - North 42 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 46
South Side 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Description

The view from the south side of Looking Glass encompasses a huge vista of Pisgah National Forest. To the west you can see several large but low-angle slabs. This is Cedar Rock Mountain. In 1986 Charles Ivey "discovered" a relatively easy approach to the hidden western aspect of the mountain. This is Cedar Rock proper. This steep, intimidating chunk of granite is one of the best face climbing venues in the region. Being a west facing cliff, it is cool on summer mornings and warm on winter afternoons. North Cedar is similar in nature to the west face but as an added bonus hosts some ice during the winter. South Cedar is completely different in character, being a large low angle slab covered with grooves and fun faces.

Getting There

From Brevard, NC, follow US 64 west to Cathy's Creek Road on the right. Look for signs for Forest Service Camp Kuykendall. Follow Cathy's Creek for about 5.9 miles to an obvious car park on the right. Follow the trail for about a mile to Low Gap and the Art Loeb Trail intersection. Go straight for a quarter mile. At Butter Gap there is a junction of several trails. Go straight across to the unmarked trail which is an old logging road that leads to "regular" Cedar. If you are going up hill, you are headed towards North Cedar and Stone Depot. To get to South Cedar continue on Art Loeb for another mile or so, passing the shelter soon after Butter Gap.

92 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cedar Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Darkness on the Edge
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dandy Line
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Toads R Us
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raven's Arch
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Cedar Pie
Trad 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Banana Peel
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rawhide Arch
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caught Up in the Air
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Invasive Species
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cut In The Rug
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wild Ginger Root
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Petrified Cedar
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sibling Revelry
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
I wanna be sedated
Trad, Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pawing the Void
Sport
Darkness on the Edge Cedar Rock - North 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dandy Line Cedar Rock - North 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Toads R Us Cedar Rock - Main Wall 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Raven's Arch Cedar Rock - North 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Cedar Pie Cedar Rock - Main Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Banana Peel Cedar Rock - North 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Rawhide Arch Cedar Rock - Main Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Caught Up in the Air Cedar Rock - Main Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Invasive Species Cedar Rock - North 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Cut In The Rug Cedar Rock - North 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Wild Ginger Root Cedar Rock - Main Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Petrified Cedar Cedar Rock - Main Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Sibling Revelry Cedar Rock - Main Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
I wanna be sedated Cedar Rock - Main Wall 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Pawing the Void Cedar Rock - Main Wall 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cedar Rock »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
No set rules. This is, with some exceptions, a ground-up crag in a wilderness setting. Bolts in close proximity to naturally protectable features are generally frowned upon. Stainless steel hardware only please. The Main Wall has been picked over pretty closely over the past 30 years, probably not too much opportunity for new routes there that wouldn't be considered a squeeze job. Nov 7, 2013
William Turner
Carmel, Indiana
William Turner   Carmel, Indiana
what are the rules on bolting here? Nov 5, 2013
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
+1 for a good guide book. I left the NC Select book at home yesterday and just brought this new one from Mike. It was more than what I needed to have a successful day in the area. If you plan to spend a good amount of time in the Pisgah area, this guide is a must. May 15, 2013
Check out grounduppublishing.com for a copy of your "Cedar Rock and Satellite Crags", outlining 200+ climbs in this area. The book covers all 7 faces of Cedar in full detail, Victory Wall, Cathey's Creek, Pilot Rock, Fish Bowl Crag, and an abridged John Rock. You can order online or message me for a $23 copy. Enjoy! Apr 16, 2013

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