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Routes in Cedar Rock - Main Wall

Adultery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birthday Bash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caught Up in the Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caught up in the Air Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cedar Blossom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cedar Pie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Common Ground T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Details at Ten T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Ex-squeeze Me T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Happy Camper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy Ending T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I wanna be sedated T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
LeMenestrel Cramps T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Margin of Error T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miracle Whip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Miracle Whip Alt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
New Creature T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Off The Cuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh! Mr. Friction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orangutan Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Passion and Warfare T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pawing the Void S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Petrified Cedar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polliwog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rawhide Arch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sibling Revelry T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke Hole Weiners T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spirit Stick T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stockings On The Mantle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tadpole Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toads R Us T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Two In Agreement T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unknown 5.5 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wild Ginger Root T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wyoming Dick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown 5.6 center T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown 5.6 right T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
unknown 5.8 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
unknown 5.9- T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Bruce Burgess, Bryan Haslam 1999
Page Views: 1,333 total · 15/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Feb 22, 2011
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This a decent warmup to other harder slab routes at Cedar. The climb takes good, but spaced gear at times. Probably several variations to the climb, due to its wandering slab nature. Double ropes not a bad idea, otherwise sling most pieces up high long.

Start below a series of right facing crescent shaped flakes. Move through this to a steep series of slab moves on good edges to a section of semi-detached blocks. Skirt right around the blocks, then straight up (this section is shared with Cedar Pie). When you are parallel to Cedar Pie's bolt out left, move up and right through eye brows to a good stance at the base of a left leaning ramp. Follow the ramp to the quartz dike below the anchors. Move left on the dike and exit up when it looks easy.

Location [Suggest Change]

The route starts about 20' right of Cedar Pie. Look for the series of right facing crescent flakes. 2 60m ropes to rope. Anchors on the obvious white ledge below the large horizontal dike.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Doubles in the small sizes, singles in the medium hand size to #1 camalot. Tri-cam's work well on this route. No bolts, all trad! Double bolt anchor shared with Cedar Pie.

Photos

Bryan Haslam
Asheville, North Carolina
 
Bryan Haslam   Asheville, North Carolina
 
Retrospective. I had eyeballed this line for a while before one day climbing with Bruce and Andy Kluge and several other people...we just jumped on this on a whim. Never offer Bruce the lead on a FA. He'll flash it. Apr 30, 2016

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