Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Clarence Hickman, Mark Pell
Page Views: 2,454 total · 25/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Sep 30, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is one of my favorite face climbs anywhere and can be done in 1 long pitch.

P1. Climb up to a flake and traverse right to a stance. Head straight up on great gear, passing 1 bolt to a bulge and double bolt belay. 5.10 b/c 80 ft.

P2. Move up and right and clip a bolt. Make a difficult mantel move to a stance and another bolt. Climb up and left on great holds passing another bolt into a right facing feature. Follow the right facing feature passing 2 more bolts to a double bolt belay. 5.11a 110 ft.

Location

From where the trail meets the cliff, follow the trail up and left about 300 ft. When you reach the cliff again move right on a somewhat ledge. Starts 30 ft left of an obvious left facing corner/arch beneath a short right facing roof.

Protection

Standard NC rack, slings, draws

Photos

rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
  5.11a PG13
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
  5.11a PG13
Pin on P1 has been removed and now takes a bomber red c3/blue tcu. Rap anchors above small roof at the end of P1 w old biners new webbing (2/11/2011) and a rap ring. Clipping the 1st bolt on P2 is not hard at all, pulling the mantle move is an off balance mantle and reach Feb 12, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
P2 is a one-move wonder. The rest of that pitch is no harder than 5.9. Great overall route. A 70m will get you down in two raps. Dec 15, 2012
Scrappy Cloggins and I did this route in 1987 as our third project together at Cedar and it was bolted by a combination of lead and rappel methods over several attempts punctuated by rainstorms before it was finally redpointed on one clear afternoon. We originally tried the shallow corner feature and bulge just left of the belay ledge to start our second pitch but abandoned that line in favor of the famous detached flake on the right, about the size of a refrigerator door and almost as easy to move. Carefully mantling onto the top of the wobbly flake to stand and clip the first bolt on the second pitch was an exciting portion of this enjoyable climb that I'm sorry modern climbers don't get to experience. Jan 26, 2013
Barrett Pauer
Brevard, NC
 
Barrett Pauer   Brevard, NC
 
Don't fall pulling the bulge on P1! Nov 15, 2015