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Routes in Cedar Rock - Main Wall

Adultery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birthday Bash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caught Up in the Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caught up in the Air Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cedar Blossom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cedar Pie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Common Ground T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Details at Ten T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Ex-squeeze Me T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Happy Camper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy Ending T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I wanna be sedated T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
LeMenestrel Cramps T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Margin of Error T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miracle Whip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Miracle Whip Alt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
New Creature T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Off The Cuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh! Mr. Friction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orangutan Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Passion and Warfare T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pawing the Void S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Petrified Cedar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polliwog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rawhide Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sibling Revelry T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke Hole Weiners T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spirit Stick T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stockings On The Mantle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tadpole Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toads R Us T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Two In Agreement T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unknown 5.5 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wild Ginger Root T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wyoming Dick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown 5.6 center T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown 5.6 right T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
unknown 5.8 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
unknown 5.9- T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Clarence Hickman, Mark Pell
Page Views: 2,309 total, 27/month
Shared By: gneiss pirate on Sep 30, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of my favorite face climbs anywhere and can be done in 1 long pitch.

P1. Climb up to a flake and traverse right to a stance. Head straight up on great gear, passing 1 bolt to a bulge and double bolt belay. 5.10 b/c 80 ft.

P2. Move up and right and clip a bolt. Make a difficult mantel move to a stance and another bolt. Climb up and left on great holds passing another bolt into a right facing feature. Follow the right facing feature passing 2 more bolts to a double bolt belay. 5.11a 110 ft.

Location

From where the trail meets the cliff, follow the trail up and left about 300 ft. When you reach the cliff again move right on a somewhat ledge. Starts 30 ft left of an obvious left facing corner/arch beneath a short right facing roof.

Protection

Standard NC rack, slings, draws
Barrett Pauer
Brevard, NC
 
Barrett Pauer   Brevard, NC
 
Don't fall pulling the bulge on P1! Nov 15, 2015
Scrappy Cloggins and I did this route in 1987 as our third project together at Cedar and it was bolted by a combination of lead and rappel methods over several attempts punctuated by rainstorms before it was finally redpointed on one clear afternoon. We originally tried the shallow corner feature and bulge just left of the belay ledge to start our second pitch but abandoned that line in favor of the famous detached flake on the right, about the size of a refrigerator door and almost as easy to move. Carefully mantling onto the top of the wobbly flake to stand and clip the first bolt on the second pitch was an exciting portion of this enjoyable climb that I'm sorry modern climbers don't get to experience. Jan 26, 2013
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
P2 is a one-move wonder. The rest of that pitch is no harder than 5.9. Great overall route. A 70m will get you down in two raps. Dec 15, 2012
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
  5.11a PG13
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
  5.11a PG13
Pin on P1 has been removed and now takes a bomber red c3/blue tcu. Rap anchors above small roof at the end of P1 w old biners new webbing (2/11/2011) and a rap ring. Clipping the 1st bolt on P2 is not hard at all, pulling the mantle move is an off balance mantle and reach Feb 12, 2011