Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Frost Walker, Phil Hoffmann, Jan 20, 2013
Page Views: 518 total · 7/month
Shared By: Phoffmann on Jan 22, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Excellent thin face climbing that keeps you on your toes the whole time.
Between Surfing w/ the Alien and Glass Dancer.
Start in the obvious weakness in the middle of the face.
Moderate climbing past ample gear leads to a bolt.
Climb past the bolt to an overlap with a crucial orange TCU. Pull the overlap to a bolt and ease past a tech thin face passing two more bolts. Climb into the steep headwall and traverse hard right to amazing edges and another bolt. Get awesome past this bolt and carefully climb to a two bolt anchor.
Offset Master Cams to 1' are very helpful.
5.11d. 90"
Descent. Lower off.

Location

Where the trail meets the base of the cliff, two routes right of Pawing the Void, b/w Surfing w/ the Alien and Glass Dancer.

Protection

6 bolts and gear to 1'. Offset Master Cams are particularly helpful to 1'. A #6-7 stopper is nice to have as well.

Photos

nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
Did this route again today and wanted to say that it's a super fun route. The rock has much better friction than that of the neighboring routes. Also, after the 2nd bolt it's all bolts to the top, so leave the gear behind (you'll be thankful you did up in the bulge). The finish is cool and not quite as spicy as it appears. Feb 9, 2013