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Routes in Cedar Rock - Main Wall

Adultery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birthday Bash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caught Up in the Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caught up in the Air Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cedar Blossom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cedar Pie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Common Ground T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Details at Ten T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Ex-squeeze Me T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Happy Camper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy Ending T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I wanna be sedated T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
LeMenestrel Cramps T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Margin of Error T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miracle Whip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Miracle Whip Alt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
New Creature T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Off The Cuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh! Mr. Friction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orangutan Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Passion and Warfare T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pawing the Void S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Petrified Cedar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polliwog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rawhide Arch T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sibling Revelry T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke Hole Weiners T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spirit Stick T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stockings On The Mantle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tadpole Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toads R Us T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Two In Agreement T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unknown 5.5 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wild Ginger Root T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wyoming Dick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown 5.6 center T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown 5.6 right T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
unknown 5.8 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
unknown 5.9- T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Nathan Brown, Brian Espe
Page Views: 632 total · 10/month
Shared By: nbrown on Feb 9, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is an excellent pitch that climbs the steep headwall between P-2 of "Wild Ginger Root" and "Two In Agreement". Of special note is that both WGR's first pitch and this one tend to dry before anything else on this part of the wall. Both pitches are in the mid 11 range as well, making for a good sustained 2 pitch outing.

P-1
Climb pitch 1 of WGR.

P-2
Start by climbing Two In Agreement to the first bolt. From here move up and slightly left to a shelf and the first bolt of "common ground". Make funky moves out left to get into a shallow groove and a reachy clip (use a stiffy draw here if you're short). Continue up using brows on the left and edges on the right to gain a good hold and 3rd bolt. Move up the cool rail and past two more bolts. At the last bolt, it is easiest to move left a little on small but good edges to gain the ledge with the flake and a 2 bolt belay/rap anchor. 100'.

P-3
Optional -- added a few years later and is at 11d/12a. Climb up easy slab to the roof. Pull the cool boulder problem into the short steep groove past 2 bolts and continue to the top and a rap anchor at about 100'. Rap the route with one rope.

Location

Climbs the steep wall between P-2 of "Wild Ginger Root" and "Two In Agreement".

Protection

Light rack for the start. No gear above the first bolt.

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.11d
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.11d
Great pitch with deceptive movement. Good friction helps. Lots of sloping eyebrows and crimps. Watch for the suspect flake before reaching the first bolt. Oct 19, 2015

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