Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Nathan Brown, Brian Espe
Page Views: 663 total · 9/month
Shared By: nbrown on Feb 9, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is an excellent pitch that climbs the steep headwall between P-2 of "Wild Ginger Root" and "Two In Agreement". Of special note is that both WGR's first pitch and this one tend to dry before anything else on this part of the wall. Both pitches are in the mid 11 range as well, making for a good sustained 2 pitch outing.

P-1
Climb pitch 1 of WGR.

P-2
Start by climbing Two In Agreement to the first bolt. From here move up and slightly left to a shelf and the first bolt of "common ground". Make funky moves out left to get into a shallow groove and a reachy clip (use a stiffy draw here if you're short). Continue up using brows on the left and edges on the right to gain a good hold and 3rd bolt. Move up the cool rail and past two more bolts. At the last bolt, it is easiest to move left a little on small but good edges to gain the ledge with the flake and a 2 bolt belay/rap anchor. 100'.

P-3
Optional -- added a few years later and is at 11d/12a. Climb up easy slab to the roof. Pull the cool boulder problem into the short steep groove past 2 bolts and continue to the top and a rap anchor at about 100'. Rap the route with one rope.

Location

Climbs the steep wall between P-2 of "Wild Ginger Root" and "Two In Agreement".

Protection

Light rack for the start. No gear above the first bolt.

Photos

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.11d
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.11d
Great pitch with deceptive movement. Good friction helps. Lots of sloping eyebrows and crimps. Watch for the suspect flake before reaching the first bolt. Oct 19, 2015