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Routes in Cedar Rock - Main Wall

Adultery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birthday Bash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caught Up in the Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caught up in the Air Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cedar Blossom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cedar Pie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Common Ground T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Details at Ten T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Ex-squeeze Me T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Happy Camper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy Ending T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I wanna be sedated T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
LeMenestrel Cramps T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Margin of Error T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miracle Whip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Miracle Whip Alt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
New Creature T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Off The Cuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh! Mr. Friction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orangutan Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Passion and Warfare T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pawing the Void S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Petrified Cedar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polliwog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rawhide Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sibling Revelry T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke Hole Weiners T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spirit Stick T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stockings On The Mantle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tadpole Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toads R Us T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Two In Agreement T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unknown 5.5 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wild Ginger Root T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wyoming Dick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown 5.6 center T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown 5.6 right T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
unknown 5.8 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
unknown 5.9- T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Chris Little, Shane Cobourn
Page Views: 889 total, 9/month
Shared By: nbrown on Dec 5, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is a cool line that is of a very moderate grade for Cedar Rock. The upper streak tends to drain water longer than other routes here.

Climb the moderate ground (15' right of the first bolt of "Details...") up and left to first bolt which is the second one clipped on "Details at Ten". Move left and up through bulge to another bolt. From here climb straight up to the last bolt in the water streak. Note: This last bolt was not shown on any previous guidebook topo's but was located during a rebolting effort. Continue up to the same anchor as for "Details...".

Location

Start on the easier ground just right of first bolt of "Details at Ten".

Protection

standard rack

Photos

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The Pilsner Prophet
Albuquerque N.M.
The Pilsner Prophet   Albuquerque N.M.
A little info. Shane and I put this one up. I can't remember how we picked out the line. We might have been hung over, and thought it looked easy. I led the first pitch. I remember getting lots of nuts in as I went, and the climbing was fun and seemed moderate. I found the belay ledge. There wasn't anywhere to put in some anchors, so I said "Excuse me while I whip this out!" Shane squealed with delight as the bolt kit came out. I put in the two bolts for anchors, and Shane came up. He asked me where the next pitch went. I remember my response- "That's your problem." He was a much better climber than me, and was always goading me to do harder routes, so this is what happened. He demured, and told me he didn't want to do it. I remember thinking that it looked blank above the ledge. I guess that was why I wanted him to lead the second pitch. I stepped up and right, trying to think of an excuse to get back to the ledge. I remember finding good horizontal cracks. I got in a few good pieces, and kept going. The rest of the route was easy. I think I went up and tied off to a rhodendron or two. Later that evening in Brevard, shoveling down pizza and drinking cheap wine at Casey Jones Pizza (Is it still there?) I told Shane it was my 32nd birthday. He had asked me what I was going to name "My" new route. When I told him what day it was, he started suggesting things like "Midlife Crisis". At some point "Birthday Bash" popped into my head. I'd never had a birthday party, and I was thinking of "Bashing" in bolts. He was delighted. He died two years later to the day. I don't want to be morbid, but he was my best friend, and I don't want him to be forgotten. He kept the Piedmont Boulder Toads (Toads R US!) together, laughed the most, climbed the most, drank the most beer, and ran his mouth the most. I still remember him reducing Gus Glitch to a quivering mass of fear by simply untying one of his shoes. I would love to hear from my friends. I only discovered this web site a few days ago. Dan Flowers has my number, or just put in a line or two to let me know you are alive and well. May 18, 2014
Mike Reardon  
 
Id call this one close in quality and difficulty to Toads-R-us. One of the better moderates at Cedar! Sep 14, 2012