Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Winter 1987 Clarence Hickman and Mark Pell|
|Page Views:||423 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Pell on Jan 31, 2013|
|Admins:||Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry|
5.11(c?) crux is the steep face on the front of the central buttress, protected by two bolts drilled by hand on the lead by Hickman from free stances, right of the crack on pitch 2. A second, easier 11 crux is at the start of the first pitch near ground level, protected with two bolts by Pell. The third bolt on pitch 1, 10' below the belay, was added after the 10d move there had been made without protection by the leader on the f.a. The belay for pitch 2 is semi-hanging from camming gear in the 1-1/2" to 3" range, and is best made standing left of the crack. This belay also serves "Squeeze Pop" by K. Kline/C. Caldwell, which goes up the crack then directly up the face instead of cutting right as for New Creature. Carry extra slings and biners to facilitate this belay.
Start between Sibling Revelry's "Hex Flake," and Passion and Warfare, directly below the prominent pitch 2 handcrack that cuts through the left side of the central buttress. The lower bolts on the pitch 1 crux will be easily visible about 15-20' up. From the 'well-furnished' flake ledge atop pitch 2, a third pitch goes up the slab and through the overlap at a prominent water groove with a single bolt at about 5.9 then easier above, with good camming pro. Follow the groove to the trees, walk off left or rappel if you know your way down.
Carry standard Cedar trad rack featuring small wires, duplicate middle wires, and a full range of cams from small to 3" with duplicates in all sizes. Save a 2-1/2" and 3" cam for lead protection in the crack. A hook may be useful on a horizontal flake above the bolts on pitch 2. Take extra mid and long slings and extra biners. Some may find double ropes to be helpful on pitch 2.
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