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Routes in Cedar Rock - Main Wall

Adultery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birthday Bash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caught Up in the Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caught up in the Air Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cedar Blossom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cedar Pie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Common Ground T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Details at Ten T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Ex-squeeze Me T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Happy Camper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy Ending T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I wanna be sedated T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
LeMenestrel Cramps T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Margin of Error T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miracle Whip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Miracle Whip Alt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
New Creature T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Off The Cuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh! Mr. Friction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orangutan Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Passion and Warfare T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pawing the Void S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Petrified Cedar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polliwog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rawhide Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sibling Revelry T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke Hole Weiners T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spirit Stick T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stockings On The Mantle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tadpole Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toads R Us T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Two In Agreement T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unknown 5.5 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wild Ginger Root T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wyoming Dick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown 5.6 center T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown 5.6 right T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
unknown 5.8 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
unknown 5.9- T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Winter 1987 Clarence Hickman and Mark Pell
Page Views: 348 total, 6/month
Shared By: Mark Pell on Jan 31, 2013
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

5.11(c?) crux is the steep face on the front of the central buttress, protected by two bolts drilled by hand on the lead by Hickman from free stances, right of the crack on pitch 2. A second, easier 11 crux is at the start of the first pitch near ground level, protected with two bolts by Pell. The third bolt on pitch 1, 10' below the belay, was added after the 10d move there had been made without protection by the leader on the f.a. The belay for pitch 2 is semi-hanging from camming gear in the 1-1/2" to 3" range, and is best made standing left of the crack. This belay also serves "Squeeze Pop" by K. Kline/C. Caldwell, which goes up the crack then directly up the face instead of cutting right as for New Creature. Carry extra slings and biners to facilitate this belay.

Location

Start between Sibling Revelry's "Hex Flake," and Passion and Warfare, directly below the prominent pitch 2 handcrack that cuts through the left side of the central buttress. The lower bolts on the pitch 1 crux will be easily visible about 15-20' up. From the 'well-furnished' flake ledge atop pitch 2, a third pitch goes up the slab and through the overlap at a prominent water groove with a single bolt at about 5.9 then easier above, with good camming pro. Follow the groove to the trees, walk off left or rappel if you know your way down.

Protection

Carry standard Cedar trad rack featuring small wires, duplicate middle wires, and a full range of cams from small to 3" with duplicates in all sizes. Save a 2-1/2" and 3" cam for lead protection in the crack. A hook may be useful on a horizontal flake above the bolts on pitch 2. Take extra mid and long slings and extra biners. Some may find double ropes to be helpful on pitch 2.

Photos

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Mark Pell  
 
Tom, sorry for the confusion. I agree the route would be more popular and safer with modern bolts on P1 to bring it up to date with the newly replaced gear on the rest of the route. As you know, the old Rawl buttonheads were the style of the day but if it's any comfort the first two are the stronger 5/16" size. All three are about 25 years old though and should be replaced. I would do this myself if I didn't live 1,000 miles away now. Otherwise P1 has decent pro from nuts and cams. For those who do the route in short pitches, the semihanging clean belay below P2 is problematic. I always felt this would be a good spot for a bolted belay/rappel station slightly left of the crack and below the little roof, which would also serve neighboring lines. I would not object if Nathan Brown or another qualified bolter took care of this, which would probably also help make this deserving route more popular and get more people up on the excellent second pitch. Nov 2, 2013
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
The description seems confusing. Start just right of flake of Sibling Revelry. Head up overlaps to three bolts and some gear. Belay below the roof on finger sized gear in the crack. Belay is hanging. For the second pitch move up the crack then get into the corner out right. Stem and jam your way up the crux and move right on top of the head wall bulge below two bolts on the slab. Finish at anchors on frijolitos. Nothing larger than a #1 camalot, double fingers sized, and nuts. This route would be classic if the first pitch bolts were replaced. They are rusted button heads. P2's bolts have been replaced. The other option is to just lead this as one long pitch with a 60m rope and skip the hanging belay. Just remember to save a tight hands sized piece and your smallest TCU/C3 for the crux. May 14, 2013