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Routes in Cedar Rock - Main Wall

Adultery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Birthday Bash T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caught Up in the Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Caught up in the Air Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cedar Blossom T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cedar Pie T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Common Ground T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Details at Ten T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Ex-squeeze Me T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Happy Camper S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Happy Ending T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I wanna be sedated T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
LeMenestrel Cramps T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Margin of Error T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Miracle Whip T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Miracle Whip Alt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
New Creature T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Off The Cuff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh! Mr. Friction T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Orangutan Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Passion and Warfare T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pawing the Void S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Petrified Cedar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polliwog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rawhide Arch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sibling Revelry T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smoke Hole Weiners T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spirit Stick T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stockings On The Mantle T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tadpole Direct T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toads R Us T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Two In Agreement T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Unknown 5.5 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wild Ginger Root T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wyoming Dick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
unknown 5.6 center T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown 5.6 right T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
unknown 5.8 T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
unknown 5.9- T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Chris Little, Mark Pell, Clarence Hickman
Page Views: 2,663 total, 24/month
Shared By: Sean Cobourn on Aug 27, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

The first pitch is probably the most "popular" route at Cedar.
P1= climb the fun slab to a set of anchors 120 feet up. 5.8
P2= Traverse up and right into the Party Bowl. 50 feet.
or head straight up the spicy face to the top. 5.9+

Location

Where trail heading left detours away from wall to approach the upper tier.

Protection

NC trad rack, TCU's come in very handy, as does a #3 Camalot. Double ropes are also helpful.
Ben Greene
Asheville, North Carolina
Ben Greene   Asheville, North Carolina
Caleb Morrison

Im guessing those bail pieces were mine--- A number 4 Red Hex- and a Small bd Stopper- on a quick-link.

hahaha- I am allergic to wasps- and decided to get the hell out of there, when I saw those two nests!

Thanks for posting- This is the second year in a row there have been wasps on this route Jun 19, 2017
Heads up - I climbed this recently and there were three wasps nests on the route.

One active nest in the right arching crack and one just above which seemed inactive. Another just below the crux moves on P2.

Also, i found a 2 piece bail anchor that I'd be happy to see get back to its owner! Jun 3, 2017
The Pilsner Prophet
Albuquerque N.M.
The Pilsner Prophet   Albuquerque N.M.
Hi! This is The Pilsner Prophet, legally known as Chris Little. I was there with Mark and Scrappy. I don't remember why, but they asked me to come along. I guess my regular climbing partner, Shane, wasn't there that weekend. I led the second pitch. I went up and right from the anchors. There was a column of very loose rocks stacked on top pf each other, some of them as big as your dishwasher.I got to a small lip and stopped. I hadn't gotten in much from the belay ledge, as I recall. Also, I didn't have my good shoes on. There were some very thin, shallow cracks right there above the lip. I had some of Mark's gear with me-very small aiding nuts. I pulled them out and tried a few. Human hair was probably to wide for those cracks. I decided to go for it, and pulled over the lip. I knew I was committed, but started finding small edges, so I just kept going. I don't remember where, but I stopped to belay and Mark followed me. He got to the lip and seemed to be impressed. He asked me about putting a bolt in. I think I resisted, and Mark said more people would do it if there was a bolt there. I was just tagging along on on their route, so I agreed. Mark and Scrappy went back a few weeks later and did the direct finish and found the party bowl. I've never seen it. Shane died soon after, and Sean took up a collection for the plaque. He put it in. I hope it's still there, and I hope I can see it.P.S.-what's with the PG13? May 18, 2014
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Thanks for the FA history. I will have to try the linkup of P1 to P2. I only thought those bolts were replaced, never knew they weren't part of the FA. Sep 20, 2012
Originally I led P1 by going all the way to the Party Bowl in one lead, doglegging right at the end to crab into the bowl. Chris took P2 straight up out of the bowl past the belay bolts (steep initial face crux with some thin slab above), and belayed short of the top overlap so Scrap could finish it and all could get a lead on the fa. The variant P2, going direct to the top from near where lower belay bolts are now located, was done the next year in harsh Winter conditions (frost and running ice water) via a nice lead by Scrap at what we felt was about 10a at the time, but a little serious because the gear was small and tricky and we were freezing. The belay left of and below the Party Bowl was from clean gear, no problem. Again, we topped out via a short exit pitch but modern 60-meter ropes would make it to the trees. Both versions ground-up, on sight. Belay bolts on original P1 added by others. Original name was Toads R Us, with a backwards 'R' like the toy store. Mar 18, 2012
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
The first pitch can be almost completely protected by nuts! Very uncommon for this style of granite. See how many you can place. Jan 3, 2012