All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > The North Walls
Avg: 2.9 from 9 votes
Routes in The North Walls
|Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|NORTH NORTH ARETE T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Nanook T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Parallel Passages T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||2,784 total, 44/month|
|Shared By:||harihari on Sep 20, 2012|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Kate Lynn|
DescriptionA wonderful long moderate that tops out on the Chief with a couple spectacular pitches. You can do this route in 7 pitches with a 60m rope. Walk off.
P1: Pass a bolt, and head either straight up (5.10c) or up and slightly left (5.9). Pass a rap station and head onto easier ground to a station on a flatish section (about 50m).
P2: Head up and right of the station, go through a 5.6 off-width/chimney (good pro), go up, do a 10a move off a short, right-angled crack, and go up cracks and blocks and finally hard right for 55m. 5.10a
Walk up and left, then look back and right for a beautiful left-facing flake crack (see beta photo). Belay at the bottom of this off two bolts (3rd class).
P3: MONEY! Climb the super awesome flake-crack (beta photo), then aid the bolts (5.10b) or free (5.12a) to more crack and a station.
P4: Up the ramp into the off-width. 2 bolts and good feet keep things mellow. 5.10b
P5: MONEY! Up and right to a crack and up to a station. 5.10b.
Walk up the stairs to the base of what looks like a 3-sided elevator shaft.
P6: Head more or less straight up, into the cave, stem the cool finger crack in cave, step up to then hard right past a rap station, and belay below a big off-width/chimney. 5.9 IMHO
P7: Do a 10A move right into the corner beside the off-width. Up to a tree, right into a V-slot (bolt), and straight up (10c) or up and right (5.8) to top.
Follow the trail to the backside fo the third summit and down to the Chief parking lot.
LocationHead up the Angel's Crest trail (about 1 km from highway 99 on the south side of the Mamquam Road) which is marked with "AC" signs. When you get to the base of the gully, cross the gully and follow a decent trail to the base of the wall.
Make a sharp right, and go up the first fixed line you see.
Head at first up and right, then up and across left (all with fixed ropes), until you are at a grassy platform. There is a bolt about 8 feet up markign the start of P1