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Routes in The North Walls

Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NORTH NORTH ARETE T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nanook T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Parallel Passages T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Paul Cordy
Page Views: 2,784 total, 44/month
Shared By: harihari on Sep 20, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

A wonderful long moderate that tops out on the Chief with a couple spectacular pitches. You can do this route in 7 pitches with a 60m rope. Walk off.

P1: Pass a bolt, and head either straight up (5.10c) or up and slightly left (5.9). Pass a rap station and head onto easier ground to a station on a flatish section (about 50m).

P2: Head up and right of the station, go through a 5.6 off-width/chimney (good pro), go up, do a 10a move off a short, right-angled crack, and go up cracks and blocks and finally hard right for 55m. 5.10a

Walk up and left, then look back and right for a beautiful left-facing flake crack (see beta photo). Belay at the bottom of this off two bolts (3rd class).

P3: MONEY! Climb the super awesome flake-crack (beta photo), then aid the bolts (5.10b) or free (5.12a) to more crack and a station.

P4: Up the ramp into the off-width. 2 bolts and good feet keep things mellow. 5.10b

P5: MONEY! Up and right to a crack and up to a station. 5.10b.

Walk up the stairs to the base of what looks like a 3-sided elevator shaft.

P6: Head more or less straight up, into the cave, stem the cool finger crack in cave, step up to then hard right past a rap station, and belay below a big off-width/chimney. 5.9 IMHO

P7: Do a 10A move right into the corner beside the off-width. Up to a tree, right into a V-slot (bolt), and straight up (10c) or up and right (5.8) to top.

Follow the trail to the backside fo the third summit and down to the Chief parking lot.

Location

Head up the Angel's Crest trail (about 1 km from highway 99 on the south side of the Mamquam Road) which is marked with "AC" signs. When you get to the base of the gully, cross the gully and follow a decent trail to the base of the wall.

Make a sharp right, and go up the first fixed line you see.

Head at first up and right, then up and across left (all with fixed ropes), until you are at a grassy platform. There is a bolt about 8 feet up markign the start of P1

Protection

1x #4 Camalot
2x .5-#3 Camalot
a few nuts
a couple of pieces smaller than .3 Camalot
60m rope

If you want to bail, you will need two ropes. All stations fixed.

Photos

Tim Bonnell
  5.10c
Tim Bonnell  
  5.10c
This is one of the best 5.10 routes in Squamish. Don't be put off by the 1 star ratings as the climber didn't do any of the best pitches. The 3 pitches off Astro Ledge contain outstanding climbing in a beautiful position. Each pitch is about 40m of steep crack work. I placed the #5 on each of these pitches and was glad to have it.

With the recent rockfall it is easiest to approach up the gully and traverse out Astro Ledge. The best approach is via New Life but that makes for a pretty full day of climbing. Aug 14, 2015
Dru
Dru  
Debris from the slide on April 19th hit the bottom of Parallel Passages and also took out the approach to the climb. Best to stay away until things stabilize. Apr 21, 2015
Jessica T
seattle, wa
Jessica T   seattle, wa
Lower 4 pitches...wear your helmet, especially if others are above. Lots of loose stuff. Not typical Squamish climbing. Jul 29, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b/c
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b/c
Did this up to Astro yesterday. We knew the upper pitches are supposed to be better, but we were so discouraged by the first four pitches that we bailed and did the NN Arete. This is coming from someone that doesn't mind a new route with some adventure. This start feels like a unfinished project, still needing a lot of cleaning. Jul 28, 2014
Alan North
Berkeley, CA
 
Alan North   Berkeley, CA
 
One of my favorite Squamish routes. Bottom OK but after the ledge there are 4 pitches of high quality sustained 5.10 climbing. Jul 26, 2014
Adrian Lazar
5.10+
Adrian Lazar  
5.10+
p1 5.10c variation was seeping on 9/13, looks fun.

p6 has a tricky few moves past the rap anchor and bolt above it. It makes more sense to stop at the rap anchor, bring your partner up and continue from there. This eases communication and simplifies a possibly ankle busting if not worse situation. The crux by the bolt is thought provoking. This move is a 5.10a/b IMO. Sep 15, 2013