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Parallel Passages
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 27
votes
Routes in The North Walls
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Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cassiopeia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Come From Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crack of Destiny, The T 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Empire Of Dirt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monoceros T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nanook T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nch’Kay Wall T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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North North Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Parallel Passages T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Southern Lights, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tainted Love T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R |
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Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 49.6876, -123.1352 |
| FA: | Paul Cordy |
| Page Views: | 8,020 total · 49/month |
| Shared By: | harihari on Sep 20, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A wonderful long moderate that tops out on the Chief with a couple spectacular pitches. You can do this route in 7 pitches with a 60m rope. Walk off.
P1: Pass a bolt, and head either straight up (5.10c) or up and slightly left (5.9). Pass a rap station and head onto easier ground to a station on a flatish section (about 50m). This pitch is covered by sand right now, not sandy, covered by sand. The anchors were hit by large rock fall, the hangers are deformed, but we trusted them anyway.
P2: This pitch does not exist anymore, the whole this fell leaving choss then blank white wall.
Walk up and left, then look back and right for a beautiful left-facing flake crack (see beta photo). Belay at the bottom of this off two bolts (3rd class).
P3: MONEY! Climb the super awesome flake-crack (beta photo), then aid the bolts (5.10b) or free (5.12a) to more crack and a station.
P4: Up the ramp into the off-width. 2 bolts and good feet keep things mellow. 5.10b
P5: MONEY! Up and right to a crack and up to a station. 5.10b.
Walk up the stairs to the base of what looks like a 3-sided elevator shaft.
P6: Head more or less straight up, into the cave, stem the cool finger crack in cave, step up to then hard right past a rap station, and belay below a big off-width/chimney. 5.9 IMHO
P7: Do a 10A move right into the corner beside the off-width. Up to a tree, right into a V-slot (bolt), and straight up (10c) or up and right (5.8) to top.
Follow the trail to the backside fo the third summit and down to the Chief parking lot.
Location
Head up the Angel's Crest trail (about 1 km from highway 99 on the south side of the Mamquam Road) which is marked with "AC" signs. When you get to the base of the gully, cross the gully and follow a decent trail to the base of the wall.
Make a sharp right, and go up the first fixed line you see.
Head at first up and right, then up and across left (all with fixed ropes), until you are at a grassy platform. There is a bolt about 8 feet up markign the start of P1
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