Avg: 2.8 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||5,568 total · 59/month|
|Shared By:||harihari on Sep 20, 2012|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
P1: Pass a bolt, and head either straight up (5.10c) or up and slightly left (5.9). Pass a rap station and head onto easier ground to a station on a flatish section (about 50m).
P2: Head up and right of the station, go through a 5.6 off-width/chimney (good pro), go up, do a 10a move off a short, right-angled crack, and go up cracks and blocks and finally hard right for 55m. 5.10a
Walk up and left, then look back and right for a beautiful left-facing flake crack (see beta photo). Belay at the bottom of this off two bolts (3rd class).
P3: MONEY! Climb the super awesome flake-crack (beta photo), then aid the bolts (5.10b) or free (5.12a) to more crack and a station.
P4: Up the ramp into the off-width. 2 bolts and good feet keep things mellow. 5.10b
P5: MONEY! Up and right to a crack and up to a station. 5.10b.
Walk up the stairs to the base of what looks like a 3-sided elevator shaft.
P6: Head more or less straight up, into the cave, stem the cool finger crack in cave, step up to then hard right past a rap station, and belay below a big off-width/chimney. 5.9 IMHO
P7: Do a 10A move right into the corner beside the off-width. Up to a tree, right into a V-slot (bolt), and straight up (10c) or up and right (5.8) to top.
Follow the trail to the backside fo the third summit and down to the Chief parking lot.
Make a sharp right, and go up the first fixed line you see.
Head at first up and right, then up and across left (all with fixed ropes), until you are at a grassy platform. There is a bolt about 8 feet up markign the start of P1