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Routes in The North Walls

Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empire Of Dirt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nanook T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North North Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Parallel Passages T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Colin Moorhead, Mandoline Clark, June 2010
Page Views: 938 total · 9/month
Shared By: Colin Moorhead on Aug 16, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This climb ascends the exposed arete to right of High Plains Drifter. Excellent, varied crack and face climbing. Some of the best positions on the Chief.

Pitch 1. 5,12c. Overhanging tips layback. Difficult moves around lip (crux) lead to easier hand crack which peters out to tricky face climbing exit.

Pitch 2. 5.12a. Beautiful exposed arete climbing with amazing crimps and multiple cruxes. Bolted but a 00 tcu and yellow alien were used to protect the exit. Down climb ledge to belay below pitch 2 of High Plains Drifter.

Pitch 3. 5.11c. Climb crux pitch of the Drifter.

Location

Approach as for High Plains Drifter at vetical gulley that leads to the Drifter, continue 10 meters along main ledge and pull into alcove at the base of pitch one.

Protection

One set of cams to gold bd. extra tiny cams, green c3 seemed critical to protecting crux. Nuts.

Photos

Evan Stevens
  5.12c PG13
Evan Stevens  
  5.12c PG13
A cool line in a spectacular position. We approached via angel's crest, but I would recommend subsequent parties to rap in from the top with a wire brush and do some pre-cleaning. This route is good, but rarely traveled so chances are you will find it dirty and flakey. After we did a pass or two it improved a little bit. The first pitch is not too hard for the grade, with good rests. The second pitch has some runouts and the need for 2 or 3 pieces of gear...maybe it should just be fully bolted? Finishing on the last pitch of the drifter is a great way to end as well. Jul 11, 2011

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