All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > The North Walls
Avg: 3.9 from 25 votes
|Type:||Trad, 550 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||10,679 total · 91/month|
|Shared By:||David Trippett on Jul 20, 2008|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Kate Lynn|
Alaska Highway.Alaska Highway ascends an imposing system of overhanging corners and chimneys...
When arriving at the belay after the second pitch, try and recall if you've done aid pitches that took as long to finish, then think of Steve "Roadie" Seats soloing this pitch.
This route deserves its reputation. Not so much because p2 is the hardest pitch you'll ever climb, but because few pitches will challenge your repertoire of granite trickery as this. Improv at its finest.
Pitch one begins with some steep arboreal fiddling to a hanging belay below a roof. Many fixed nuts. Scruffy. 10d
Pull into the powerful traversing undercling and onto a sloping ledge. Did you think it was over?...nope! Continue up the steeply overhanging groove/chimney. Like vertical break dancing...
The third pitch may be the best 5.11a in town. 35m of steep laybacking and finger locks are rewarded by a traverse to a cool stump/gear belay. 11a
Layback on great finger locks to a chimney/off-width and on to a ledge after some face moves.10c
A thin n' crimpy seam leads to a crux hand traverse. Face climb to the ledge. You're done. 11a
Three raps from the last anchor will get you back down to the ground. Pay attention to the third, and final, station way out (climbers) right...it's easy to miss. Walk down a steep trail from a treed ledge to the start. Go drink a beer.
If you can finish "The Calling" after this; it's official, you're fit.
Many belay bolts need to be replaced and repositioned IMO. Any volunteers?