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Routes in The North Walls

Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NORTH NORTH ARETE T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nanook T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Parallel Passages T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Randy Atkinson, Dean Hart, Bruce McDonald (1985)
Page Views: 652 total · 15/month
Shared By: Travis McClinchey on Aug 28, 2014
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

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Description

A high-quality route featuring plenty of wide crack; testing your skills in off-width and chimney climbing. It is a unique climb for Squamish and a real gem!

The route ascends the obvious wide chasm to the left of Parallel Passages on Astro Ledge.

All belays are bolted.

P1: Scramble up to a splitter tight-hands crack in a small left-facing corner. Climb this, enter the chasm and find the anchor in a nice alcove. 5.11a

P2: The business! Steep, but secure climbing leads to the base of the obvious roof (crux). Clip a bolt to the left of the roof and make a couple burly moves. Easier, but physical climbing brings you to another comfy anchor. 5.11c

P3: Continue climbing the wide crack. Once it starts to feel hard, features present themselves on the right. Lots of fun! 5.10c

P4. Continue climbing the wide chimney until the end. Adventurous. 5.10b

Rappel the route with double ropes. Alternatively, continue up North North Arete or Parallel Passages.

Protection

Singles: BD #0.3, #0.4 and #6
Doubles: BD #0.5 to #5
10-12 draws (at least a few extendables)

Photos

npaolini
Vancouver, BC
npaolini   Vancouver, BC
Awesome climb. Nice and shady, so it's cool even on a hot afternoon.

An extra #1 is nice for the first pitch. You could place a lot of #1's if you wanted to. 1 #5 was enough.I'm not sure why they placed the second and third bolt on the crux pitch in a perfectly protectable part of the crack, but not at the top where it's too wide for the #6.. Also, don't trust those wedged blocks in the crack. Some are huge and look stable, but more than one moved on me!

Climbing New Life into this makes for a lot of good climbing. Jun 26, 2017
Raddam6
Salt Lake
Raddam6   Salt Lake
The #6 piece was crucial. Do not go without it. I had a single #5 cam and at no point felt in need of another. The 2nd pitch has 2 bolts even though the cams are bomber. I think I placed the 5, bumped it, found a bolt then back cleaned the 5 and didn't use it again. Jul 5, 2016

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