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> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Stawamus Chief
> N Walls
New Life
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 52
votes
Routes in The North Walls
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Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cassiopeia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Come From Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crack of Destiny, The T 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Empire Of Dirt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monoceros T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nanook T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nch’Kay Wall T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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North North Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Parallel Passages T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Southern Lights, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tainted Love T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R |
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Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jim Martinello, Trevor MacDonald, 2008. |
| Page Views: | 5,682 total · 39/month |
| Shared By: | Nicola Masciandaro on Aug 26, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
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TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
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Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
P1: Head up a left-facing corner system, move left, then continue up the corner to belay at obvious ledge. 10b
P2: Layback the crack then work up the chimney pod to base of roof, which is exited on the left with a crux reach to jug and next belay. 11b
P3: Up the V-slot/corner to belay on small ledge. 10c
P4: Traverse right and around the arete past fixed pins to belay. 10d
P5: Up from the belay and into the crack system to the trees. 10b
From the top of P5 either continue up to Astro Ledge or descend left via lovely tree-lined steep trail and series of fixed lines to the base of Zodiac Wall.
Route is shaded in the AM and extra cool due to geothermal air conditioning from adjacent mega chimney. The rock on P1-3 is clean and fractured with sharp 'alpine' feel.
P2: Layback the crack then work up the chimney pod to base of roof, which is exited on the left with a crux reach to jug and next belay. 11b
P3: Up the V-slot/corner to belay on small ledge. 10c
P4: Traverse right and around the arete past fixed pins to belay. 10d
P5: Up from the belay and into the crack system to the trees. 10b
From the top of P5 either continue up to Astro Ledge or descend left via lovely tree-lined steep trail and series of fixed lines to the base of Zodiac Wall.
Route is shaded in the AM and extra cool due to geothermal air conditioning from adjacent mega chimney. The rock on P1-3 is clean and fractured with sharp 'alpine' feel.
Photos
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