Avg: 3.2 from 30 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Jim Martinello, Trevor MacDonald, 2008.|
|Page Views:||3,968 total · 41/month|
|Shared By:||Nicola Masciandaro on Aug 26, 2012|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
P2: Layback the crack then work up the chimney pod to base of roof, which is exited on the left with a crux reach to jug and next belay. 11b
P3: Up the V-slot/corner to belay on small ledge. 10c
P4: Traverse right and around the arete past fixed pins to belay. 10d
P5: Up from the belay and into the crack system to the trees. 10b
From the top of P5 either continue up to Astro Ledge or descend left via lovely tree-lined steep trail and series of fixed lines to the base of Zodiac Wall.
Route is shaded in the AM and extra cool due to geothermal air conditioning from adjacent mega chimney. The rock on P1-3 is clean and fractured with sharp 'alpine' feel.