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Routes in The North Walls

Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NORTH NORTH ARETE T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nanook T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Parallel Passages T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Martinello, Trevor MacDonald, 2008.
Page Views: 2,070 total, 32/month
Shared By: Nicola Masciandaro on Aug 26, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

P1: Head up a left-facing corner system, move left, then continue up the corner to belay at obvious ledge. 10b

P2: Layback the crack then work up the chimney pod to base of roof, which is exited on the left with a crux reach to jug and next belay. 11b

P3: Up the V-slot/corner to belay on small ledge. 10c

P4: Traverse right and around the arete past fixed pins to belay. 10d

P5: Up from the belay and into the crack system to the trees. 10b

From the top of P5 either continue up to Astro Ledge or descend left via lovely tree-lined steep trail and series of fixed lines to the base of Zodiac Wall.

Route is shaded in the AM and extra cool due to geothermal air conditioning from adjacent mega chimney. The rock on P1-3 is clean and fractured with sharp 'alpine' feel.

Location

Zodiac Wall. Take North Gully trail following pink tape markers along right side of wash. At base of the wall go right via ledges and fixed rope to start of route at good-sized tree stump.

Protection

Standard rack with doubles to 3". Fixed belays.
Very tempting clean white jug horn about 20' up from the belay on the last pitch - don't yard on it! Sep 1, 2017
BronsonH  
 
Route was a bit dirty after P3. Fixed pin belay on the top up P3 v-slot now has one bolt (not sure if it did before but the guide did not mention it) which makes for linking P3 & P4 very logical. The bolt reduces rope drag. Breaking those two pitches up would make for some seriously short pitches. Traverse felt 10d. Aug 9, 2017
Raddam6
Salt Lake
Raddam6   Salt Lake
I've done it twice and both times felt 11b was a bit stiff for the roof, and that the route is a bit over rated. Probably 2.5 stars. Go do Alaska highway and tell me this is 4. I will say however that linking this with Public Image is a journey you will be proud of. Aug 17, 2016
harihari
VANCOUVER
 
harihari   VANCOUVER
 
P3 and P4 can be easily combined if you bring some long slings for the top of the V-slot.

P2, it's nice to have doubles of .4 and .5 Camalots.

The first 3 pitches of this route are generally dry even in the rain. Sep 20, 2012