Avg: 3.9 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||D Hart, R Atkinson 1986. FFA of P4 by D Hart later|
|Page Views:||7,582 total · 61/month|
|Shared By:||claytown on Aug 29, 2011|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. These closures will be updates as more assessments are completed.
Grand Wall Closure Area
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack), the Undertow bouldering area and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Bouldering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Western Dihedrals Closure Area
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Closure map to be posted shortly.
Slhanay Closure Area
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
P1 (11d): Starting from Astro Ledge at a two bolt anchor go up the obvious corner with a hard move off the ledge. Mostly bolted and past fixed pins/wires, plus a small piece or two to a two bolt anchor (hanging belay).
P2 (11d/12a): New books upgraded this pitch to 12a. This is the classic splitter corner on the cover of Alpinist 35. Fingers to off fingers to .75 camalot to #1 to #2s to a bolted anchor (hanging belay). If you really want the mega pitch, link P1 & 2 for full value. You could place 3x #1s on this pitch but not necessary. Alternately, the book shows that you can link this pitch into the next one in 50m. You could use 3x #1s if linking this way. You probably cannot link P1,2 &3 into the super-mega-pitch.
P3 (5.10+): If you belayed on bolts at the end of the last pitch, get back into the splitter for 30' then up into the chimney roof. If you only brought 1x #3 then bump it as you pull the roof and leave it above. You could bring a second #3 if you wanted. Don't wear a pack in the chimney. Climb to the top of the splitter and traverse on undercling fingers to a bolted belay (hanging belay).
Side note: a partial linkup variation of Alaska Highway to The Calling but ending here at the end of P3 on the Calling and rapping out is called "Southern Lights". This is my recommendation. This way is an absolute 5 star classic. The following pitches aren't that good and get REALLY dirty. Seemed like you could rap off with a single 70 but I'm not positive. Might want to bring two ropes if rapping. Linking AK Hwy and all of the Calling is called "Northern Lights".
P4 (5.12a): Sport pitch (maybe a gear placement). Right around the corner and into the dihedral (tricky start). Continue up this rather dirty corner past bolts then left up onto the face and a stance. Pull the crux (maybe 12a for a tall person but way harder for a short person, or A0). Pass a few more bolts to a bolted anchor on a super dirty slab with 6" think moss everywhere and be perplexed as to where you should go to navigate the dirtiness on the next pitch.
P5 (5.10 moss & choss): From the belay there are two bolts. One is out right towards a cool looking crack but the slab seemed plenty harder than 5.10 and runout (and was really dirty and mossy friction climbing). I don't think the route goes this way as the book says "rock continues to deteriorate in the bushy corner above". Look up and slightly left of the belay. There is a bolt about 25' up hiding in the moss. You will see an old pin with tat on the vert wall above it. Go up that way (there's also two bolts next to the pin), clip, go right into the bushy corner. Climb poor quality rock up then left across a loose 4th class ramp to a ledge. Belay here on gear in kitty litter or on a tree or off an old single smc bolt.
P6 (5.10+): Another pretty dirty pitch with subpar rock takes to you the top. Start up the corner, then past the pins on the face, back to the crack, pulling the #2 roof, then right through one more roof with undercling lock. Mantle the sandy ledge. Belay off a tree.
Descent: Go straight right along the cliff edge for 5 minutes (past the big cave/chimney) until you're forced up and into a switchback. Go to the Chief summit and walk down the Chief trail.