Avg: 3.9 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||D Hart, R Atkinson 1986. FFA of P4 by D Hart later|
|Page Views:||6,789 total · 61/month|
|Shared By:||claytown on Aug 29, 2011|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
P1 (11d): Starting from Astro Ledge at a two bolt anchor go up the obvious corner with a hard move off the ledge. Mostly bolted and past fixed pins/wires, plus a small piece or two to a two bolt anchor (hanging belay).
P2 (11d/12a): New books upgraded this pitch to 12a. This is the classic splitter corner on the cover of Alpinist 35. Fingers to off fingers to .75 camalot to #1 to #2s to a bolted anchor (hanging belay). If you really want the mega pitch, link P1 & 2 for full value. You could place 3x #1s on this pitch but not necessary. Alternately, the book shows that you can link this pitch into the next one in 50m. You could use 3x #1s if linking this way. You probably cannot link P1,2 &3 into the super-mega-pitch.
P3 (5.10+): If you belayed on bolts at the end of the last pitch, get back into the splitter for 30' then up into the chimney roof. If you only brought 1x #3 then bump it as you pull the roof and leave it above. You could bring a second #3 if you wanted. Don't wear a pack in the chimney. Climb to the top of the splitter and traverse on undercling fingers to a bolted belay (hanging belay).
Side note: a partial linkup variation of Alaska Highway to The Calling but ending here at the end of P3 on the Calling and rapping out is called "Southern Lights". This is my recommendation. This way is an absolute 5 star classic. The following pitches aren't that good and get REALLY dirty. Seemed like you could rap off with a single 70 but I'm not positive. Might want to bring two ropes if rapping. Linking AK Hwy and all of the Calling is called "Northern Lights".
P4 (5.12a): Sport pitch (maybe a gear placement). Right around the corner and into the dihedral (tricky start). Continue up this rather dirty corner past bolts then left up onto the face and a stance. Pull the crux (maybe 12a for a tall person but way harder for a short person, or A0). Pass a few more bolts to a bolted anchor on a super dirty slab with 6" think moss everywhere and be perplexed as to where you should go to navigate the dirtiness on the next pitch.
P5 (5.10 moss & choss): From the belay there are two bolts. One is out right towards a cool looking crack but the slab seemed plenty harder than 5.10 and runout (and was really dirty and mossy friction climbing). I don't think the route goes this way as the book says "rock continues to deteriorate in the bushy corner above". Look up and slightly left of the belay. There is a bolt about 25' up hiding in the moss. You will see an old pin with tat on the vert wall above it. Go up that way (there's also two bolts next to the pin), clip, go right into the bushy corner. Climb poor quality rock up then left across a loose 4th class ramp to a ledge. Belay here on gear in kitty litter or on a tree or off an old single smc bolt.
P6 (5.10+): Another pretty dirty pitch with subpar rock takes to you the top. Start up the corner, then past the pins on the face, back to the crack, pulling the #2 roof, then right through one more roof with undercling lock. Mantle the sandy ledge. Belay off a tree.
Descent: Go straight right along the cliff edge for 5 minutes (past the big cave/chimney) until you're forced up and into a switchback. Go to the Chief summit and walk down the Chief trail.