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Routes in The North Walls

Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NORTH NORTH ARETE T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nanook T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Parallel Passages T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,860 total · 24/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jul 1, 2008
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

"I hope you ate your Wheaties" (TM).
Astrologger is on good rock and is an attractive line, but the necessary difficulty in getting to it and its lonely position mean that it is seldom traveled. If you could climb the top alone, or the route had been cleaner, I would have given this 3 or 4 stars.

As well, its given grade of 11b is way out of line with other local grades and is sandbagged sufficiently so as to be hard on the Ego.

To avoid an awkward scramble, we elected to lead up the "approach pitch" past the anchors and combine this into a single pitch. The opening is A0, french-freeing a fixed line to the first of several bolts, then 5.10 climbing up on good but dirty holds (I cleaned these, but rain might restore their dirty condition), to an anchor. The climbing is sufficient to assure that you will not arrive to the anchor at 'the base' in fresh condition, and the climbing right off this anchor starts off tough and gets tougher.
From the anchor get up a leaning, overhanging flake, (1.5" gear) get into the corner (2" gear) and then fight your way up the corner on slick thin jams (2-2.5" gear) with an occasional wide piece. The crux comes about 1/3 the way up the main pitch, but the rest is still exhausting.
At the top the climbing relaxes back to 5.10 after a few good jams (3") and is a thinner crack (fingerlocks) to reach a serviceable bolt-and-chain anchor.

Location

Approach as for the Sheriff's Badge and continue North to the North Walls. Heading up into the Gully as for Alaska Highway, you will be perhaps 40 meters from intercepting the wall on the left when you come over a HUGE flat-topped boulder and see a large rock-pile (Cairn) on your left. Turn left and follow the light path (I dare not call it a trail) to the rock and keep and eye up on the wall at eye level for a fixed and knotted line with bolts above, and the bolt line to the anchor below the steep left-facing acute dihedral/flake.

Protection

Either a short batman up a fixed line to 4 bolts (dirty 5.10) to an anchor at the base, or do a messy scramble from the left to the base, then:
Two 1.5" cams, (or 2 purple camalots)
Three 2.0" cams (or 3 green camalots)
Three 2.5" cams (or 3 red camalots)
two 3" cams (or two yellow camalots)
and finally a 1" or a .75" cam or two for the top. (or a blue or grey micro camalot)

To reach a set of chains. That should put in pretty tightly spaced pro. YMMV.

Photos

I took 5!!! red camalots for this route and placed them all, lol! But I was sewing it up hard-core. Enduro-fest the whole way but definitely with a cruxy finish coming out of some pretty sustained burl. It's not a sandbag at .11b. Just solid at the grade. That said though, I took a big ole winger off the top absolutely pumped out of my mind! Jun 21, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
in Camalot size best case range:
#.5 : 1-1 1/8"
#.75 : 1 1/8- 1 3/8"
#1 : 1 3/8- 1 5/8"
#2 : 1 5/8- 2"
#3 : 2 3/8- 2 7/8" Mar 13, 2016
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
What is up with that gear recommendation? Dec 5, 2015
Eric Fjellanger
  5.11b
Eric Fjellanger  
  5.11b
Hard to compare this to other 5.11b climbs I've done at Squamish, but I'd say this is burly, rather than techy.

The batman start sucks and would detract from the climb... if you could remember it by the time you got to the anchor. As it is, this climb is incredible, deserves all the stars, and is well worth the short hike. Aug 22, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Felt at least 3 letter grades harder than any other 11's I did there... but then again, I may have biffed it. May 11, 2009
Dave E.
washington
  5.11b
Dave E.   washington
  5.11b
whoa whoa whoa, no way this is 11+, even for squamish. however, the climbing could be considered ambiguous, im not going to give it away, but i will say that i found there to be two cruxy sections, entering and exiting the flare. beyond that, get up there and find out for your self, this route is spectacular, imho

edit, three stars cause its a ways out, could be a hardman warmup for alaska highway though May 11, 2009

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