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The North Walls Rock Climbing
Routes in The North Walls
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Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cassiopeia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Come From Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Empire Of Dirt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monoceros T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nanook T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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North North Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Parallel Passages T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Tainted Love T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R |
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Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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| Elevation: | 2,079 ft |
| GPS: |
49.6876, -123.1352 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 57,490 total · 310/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Jun 30, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED SEPT 20th 2021
Details
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. Existing closures will remain in effect through the winter, as changing temperatures and weather events may trigger more debris to fall in areas where rock falls have occurred recently.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
A new rock fall occurred Sept. 20th on the Zodiac Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: all routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Angels Crest on the Lower Zodiac Wall.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
DARK SIDE BOULDERING CLOSURE
The debris field from the Sept. 20th rock fall reached the Dark Side bouldering area, and this area is now closed.
GRAND WALL CLOSURE
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack) and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
All Bouldering areas between but not including Cacademon Boulder and Titanic North have also been closed. This area includes: Gilligan’s Island, Mantel Madness, Undertow, Lipsmack, Superfly, Octagon, Black Dyke, Viper, Thighmaster, and Survivor.
Boudlering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
SLHANAY CLOSURE
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
A new rock fall occurred Sept. 20th on the Zodiac Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: all routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Angels Crest on the Lower Zodiac Wall.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
DARK SIDE BOULDERING CLOSURE
The debris field from the Sept. 20th rock fall reached the Dark Side bouldering area, and this area is now closed.
GRAND WALL CLOSURE
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack) and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
All Bouldering areas between but not including Cacademon Boulder and Titanic North have also been closed. This area includes: Gilligan’s Island, Mantel Madness, Undertow, Lipsmack, Superfly, Octagon, Black Dyke, Viper, Thighmaster, and Survivor.
Boudlering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
SLHANAY CLOSURE
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The dark, north facing section of the Chief left of Angel's Crest and the North North Gully holds some of the area's hardest, purest and longest free climbs. Testpieces like Alaska Highway and The Calling make this the realm of the honed. Some slightly more accessible pitches can be found along with some single pitches routes.
The wall is split horizontally at mid-height by the Zodiac ledge, which can be reached by any of the long routes that start from the ground, or by scrambling up from the far left side.
The north facing aspect can make this a cool place in the heat, but also makes it slower to dry and shortens the spring and fall season compared to the rest of the chief. Expect a little extra dirt and munge than other areas on The Chief.
The wall is split horizontally at mid-height by the Zodiac ledge, which can be reached by any of the long routes that start from the ground, or by scrambling up from the far left side.
The north facing aspect can make this a cool place in the heat, but also makes it slower to dry and shortens the spring and fall season compared to the rest of the chief. Expect a little extra dirt and munge than other areas on The Chief.
Getting There
Approach as for Angel's Crest, but once at the base, head up the gully a touch further until you are on a very flat boulder with a cairn indicating a rough trail that heads left under the wall. This area isn't well traveled so the trails are rough and prone to overgrow or be hidden by seasonal debris.
Classic Climbing Routes at The North Walls
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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