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Routes in The North Walls

Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Empire Of Dirt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nanook T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North North Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Parallel Passages T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Elevation: 2,079 ft
GPS: 49.688, -123.135 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 23,147 total · 185/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn
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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

The dark, north facing section of the Chief left of Angel's Crest and the North North Gully holds some of the area's hardest, purest and longest free climbs. Testpieces like Alaska Highway and The Calling make this the realm of the honed. Some slightly more accessible pitches can be found along with some single pitches routes.

The wall is split horizontally at mid-height by the Zodiac ledge, which can be reached by any of the long routes that start from the ground, or by scrambling up from the far left side.

The north facing aspect can make this a cool place in the heat, but also makes it slower to dry and shortens the spring and fall season compared to the rest of the chief. Expect a little extra dirt and munge than other areas on The Chief.

Getting There

Approach as for Angel's Crest, but once at the base, head up the gully a touch further until you are on a very flat boulder with a cairn indicating a rough trail that heads left under the wall. This area isn't well traveled so the trails are rough and prone to overgrow or be hidden by seasonal debris.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The North Walls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
North North Arete
Trad 7 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Parallel Passages
Trad 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Gone Surfin'
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 17
Astrologger
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 21
New Life
Trad 5 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Public Image
Trad 4 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Nanook
Trad 5 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 26
Alaska Highway
Trad 5 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
Polaris
Trad 10 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
The Calling
Trad 6 pitches
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
North Star
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
North North Arete
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
Parallel Passages
 12
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 7 pitches
Gone Surfin'
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Astrologger
 17
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
New Life
 21
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 5 pitches
Public Image
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 4 pitches
Nanook
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 5 pitches
Alaska Highway
 26
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad 5 pitches
Polaris
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 10 pitches
The Calling
 11
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 6 pitches
North Star
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad
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Dru B.  
There was a large rockfall on April 19th 2015 from the top of Chilkoot Pass which destroyed the upper sections of routes from The Calling to Yukon Gold. Debris spread across the base and totally destroyed an area stretching from Parallel Passages to the Angels Crest trail. Best to avoid the whole area for now until things stabilize. Apr 21, 2015

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