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Nanook
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.3 from 9
votes
Routes in The North Walls
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Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cassiopeia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Come From Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crack of Destiny, The T 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Empire Of Dirt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monoceros T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nanook T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nch’Kay Wall T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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North North Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Parallel Passages T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Southern Lights, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tainted Love T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R |
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Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 430 ft (130 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 49.6876, -123.1352 |
| FA: | 11/2013 - Danny Guestrin, Jon Rigg, Ben Stanley, Dave Brown, Dom Ngo, Chris Dinner, Will Kahlert |
| Page Views: | 3,147 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Danny Guestrin on May 23, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
FA: 11/2013 - Danny Guestrin, Jon Rigg, Ben Stanley, Dave Brown, Dom Ngo, Chris Dinner, Will Kahlert
FFA: 05/2016 – Danny Guestrin, Jon Rigg, Laurent Janssen
Nanook follows steep cracks and corners on the lower-left side of the North Walls. This well-protected route features wild and varied climbing with exciting positions. It was first climbed as a winter adventure and upon reaching the top it was clear this line needed to be cleaned for its free climbing potential.
Pitch 1 (5.12a, 30m): Clip a bolt and climb right to gain a partially bolted left-facing offwidth corner to a ledge. Make slabby moves up and left to a thin crack in a shallow corner. At the top of the corner, step right and face climb to a bolted belay on a ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.11b, 35m): Climb the double corners above the belay and move right to gain the major left-facing corner system. Near its top, climb right under a small roof to an overhanging finger and hand crack. Bolted belay at a tree stump on the corner above. Burly and exposed.
Pitch 3 (5.11c, 25m): Continue up the corner through a roof (bolt). Delicate face climbing and stemming past three bolts leads to a steep crack that climbs out of the huge roof that looms above to a bolted belay at a stance.
Pitch 4 (5.9, 36m): Climb the offwidth to its top and move left to climb the left leaning gaping crack (fixed piton). Bolted belay. Those uncomfortable with wide climbing may find a second 6” cam useful.
Pitch 5 (5.10c, 15m): Climb a narrowing finger crack in a clean left facing corner.
Location
Approach: Take the N.N. Gully trail and start below a partially bolted left-facing offwidth 30 m right of Tall Skinny People (or 50 m right of New Life).
Descent: 4 rappels with a single 70m rope. Make two 30m rappels down the wall to the climbers left of Nanook. On the 3rd rappel, rap right to the top of the 1st pitch (watch the ends of the rope - ie. tie knots!).
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