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Routes in The North Walls

Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NORTH NORTH ARETE T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nanook T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Parallel Passages T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 430 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: 11/2013 - Danny Guestrin, Jon Rigg, Ben Stanley, Dave Brown, Dom Ngo, Chris Dinner, Will Kahlert
Page Views: 427 total, 22/month
Shared By: Danny Guestrin on May 23, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

FA: 11/2013 - Danny Guestrin, Jon Rigg, Ben Stanley, Dave Brown, Dom Ngo, Chris Dinner, Will Kahlert
FFA: 05/2016 – Danny Guestrin, Jon Rigg, Laurent Janssen

Nanook follows steep cracks and corners on the lower-left side of the North Walls. This well-protected route features wild and varied climbing with exciting positions. It was first climbed as a winter adventure and upon reaching the top it was clear this line needed to be cleaned for its free climbing potential.

Pitch 1 (5.11d, 30m): Clip a bolt and climb right to gain a partially bolted left-facing offwidth corner to a ledge. Make slabby moves up and left to a thin crack in a shallow corner. At the top of the corner, step right and face climb to a bolted belay on a ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.11b, 35m): Climb the double corners above the belay and move right to gain the major left-facing corner system. Near its top, climb right under a small roof to an overhanging finger and hand crack. Bolted belay at a tree stump on the corner above. Burly and exposed.

Pitch 3 (5.11b, 25m): Continue up the corner through a roof (bolt). Delicate face climbing and stemming past three bolts leads to a steep crack that climbs out of the huge roof that looms above to a bolted belay at a stance.

Pitch 4 (5.8, 20m): Climb the offwidth to its top and move left to a bolted belay at a stance. Those uncomfortable with wide climbing may find a second 6” cam useful.

Pitch 5 (5.10c, 20m): Climb the left leaning gaping crack (fixed piton) to a narrowing finger crack in a clean left facing corner.

Location

Approach: Take the N.N. Gully trail and start below a partially bolted left-facing offwidth 30 m right of Tall Skinny People (or 50 m right of New Life).

Descent: 4 rappels with a single 70m rope. Make two 30m rappels down the wall to the climbers left of Nanook. On the 3rd rappel, rap right to the top of the 1st pitch (watch the ends of the rope - ie. tie knots!).

Protection

Doubles to 3”, singles 4”-6”, small nuts.

Well protected and cruxes can be easily aided.

Photos

Alex, it is not possible to link High and Dry into Nanook. Pitch 1 of Nanook can be climbed at .11- A0 or .10 C1. Aug 26, 2017
Is it possible to climb High and Dry INTO Nanook??
Has anyone done this? Aug 4, 2017