Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The North Walls

Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
NORTH NORTH ARETE T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nanook T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Parallel Passages T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dean Hart and Randy Atkinson (1985)
Page Views: 587 total, 15/month
Shared By: Travis McClinchey on Aug 28, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A fantastic climb that does not get the attention it deserves!

Memorable crack climbing that is sustained in the 3"-4" range.

The climb is located on Astro Ledge, approximately half-way between Parallel Passages / Public Image and The Calling. It is located on a slightly overhung orange and white wall.

There is no real anchor at the start, but rather one bolt which can be backed up by slinging a nearby tree.

All anchors bolted.

P1: Make some easy moves on sketchy and loose rock until you can reach a fixed rope. Batman up this rope until its end. Climb twin-broken cracks, clipping one bolt en route, until you can enter an alcove-type feature in the middle of the wall. Climb the crack in the back of this feature as it widens from fingers to wide hands. Once at the end, pull a small roof and continue up the 3"-4" crack to the base of a left-facing corner. 5.11a

P2: Climb the obvious left-facing corner. The crack is fairly sustained in the 4" range, but there are several bolts en route to clip. There are several features on the wall that make the climbing easier than it appears. The final few feet feature some simple off-width moves. Climb through this and find the anchor to the right and below the roof. 5.10b

Rappel the route with one 70m rope. It might be possible with one 60m? It would be VERY close on the first rappel.

Protection

Doubles to BD #4.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments