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> N Walls
Gone Surfin'
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 6
votes
Routes in The North Walls
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Alaska Highway T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Astrologger T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blood Meridian T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Calling, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cassiopeia T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chilkoot Pass T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Come From Away T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Empire Of Dirt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gone Surfin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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High and Dry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Monoceros T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nanook T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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New Life T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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North North Arete T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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North Star T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c V8 7B |
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Parallel Passages T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Polaris T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Public Image T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Yukon Gold T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Dean Hart and Randy Atkinson (1985) |
| Page Views: | 2,036 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Travis McClinchey on Aug 28, 2014 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED SEPT 20th 2021
Details
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. Existing closures will remain in effect through the winter, as changing temperatures and weather events may trigger more debris to fall in areas where rock falls have occurred recently.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
A new rock fall occurred Sept. 20th on the Zodiac Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: all routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Angels Crest on the Lower Zodiac Wall.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
DARK SIDE BOULDERING CLOSURE
The debris field from the Sept. 20th rock fall reached the Dark Side bouldering area, and this area is now closed.
GRAND WALL CLOSURE
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack) and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
All Bouldering areas between but not including Cacademon Boulder and Titanic North have also been closed. This area includes: Gilligan’s Island, Mantel Madness, Undertow, Lipsmack, Superfly, Octagon, Black Dyke, Viper, Thighmaster, and Survivor.
Boudlering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
SLHANAY CLOSURE
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
A new rock fall occurred Sept. 20th on the Zodiac Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: all routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Angels Crest on the Lower Zodiac Wall.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
DARK SIDE BOULDERING CLOSURE
The debris field from the Sept. 20th rock fall reached the Dark Side bouldering area, and this area is now closed.
GRAND WALL CLOSURE
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack) and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
All Bouldering areas between but not including Cacademon Boulder and Titanic North have also been closed. This area includes: Gilligan’s Island, Mantel Madness, Undertow, Lipsmack, Superfly, Octagon, Black Dyke, Viper, Thighmaster, and Survivor.
Boudlering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
SLHANAY CLOSURE
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A fantastic climb that does not get the attention it deserves!
Memorable crack climbing that is sustained in the 3"-4" range.
The climb is located on Astro Ledge, approximately half-way between Parallel Passages / Public Image and The Calling. It is located on a slightly overhung orange and white wall.
There is no real anchor at the start, but rather one bolt which can be backed up by slinging a nearby tree.
All anchors bolted.
P1: Make some easy moves on sketchy and loose rock until you can reach a fixed rope. Batman up this rope until its end. Climb twin-broken cracks, clipping one bolt en route, until you can enter an alcove-type feature in the middle of the wall. Climb the crack in the back of this feature as it widens from fingers to wide hands. Once at the end, pull a small roof and continue up the 3"-4" crack to the base of a left-facing corner. 5.11a
P2: Climb the obvious left-facing corner. The crack is fairly sustained in the 4" range, but there are several bolts en route to clip. There are several features on the wall that make the climbing easier than it appears. The final few feet feature some simple off-width moves. Climb through this and find the anchor to the right and below the roof. 5.10b
Rappel the route with one 70m rope. It might be possible with one 60m? It would be VERY close on the first rappel.
Memorable crack climbing that is sustained in the 3"-4" range.
The climb is located on Astro Ledge, approximately half-way between Parallel Passages / Public Image and The Calling. It is located on a slightly overhung orange and white wall.
There is no real anchor at the start, but rather one bolt which can be backed up by slinging a nearby tree.
All anchors bolted.
P1: Make some easy moves on sketchy and loose rock until you can reach a fixed rope. Batman up this rope until its end. Climb twin-broken cracks, clipping one bolt en route, until you can enter an alcove-type feature in the middle of the wall. Climb the crack in the back of this feature as it widens from fingers to wide hands. Once at the end, pull a small roof and continue up the 3"-4" crack to the base of a left-facing corner. 5.11a
P2: Climb the obvious left-facing corner. The crack is fairly sustained in the 4" range, but there are several bolts en route to clip. There are several features on the wall that make the climbing easier than it appears. The final few feet feature some simple off-width moves. Climb through this and find the anchor to the right and below the roof. 5.10b
Rappel the route with one 70m rope. It might be possible with one 60m? It would be VERY close on the first rappel.
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