All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > The North Walls
Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Dean Hart and Randy Atkinson (1985)|
|Page Views:||604 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Travis McClinchey on Aug 28, 2014|
|Admins:||Kate Lynn, Nate Ball|
DescriptionA fantastic climb that does not get the attention it deserves!
Memorable crack climbing that is sustained in the 3"-4" range.
The climb is located on Astro Ledge, approximately half-way between Parallel Passages / Public Image and The Calling. It is located on a slightly overhung orange and white wall.
There is no real anchor at the start, but rather one bolt which can be backed up by slinging a nearby tree.
All anchors bolted.
P1: Make some easy moves on sketchy and loose rock until you can reach a fixed rope. Batman up this rope until its end. Climb twin-broken cracks, clipping one bolt en route, until you can enter an alcove-type feature in the middle of the wall. Climb the crack in the back of this feature as it widens from fingers to wide hands. Once at the end, pull a small roof and continue up the 3"-4" crack to the base of a left-facing corner. 5.11a
P2: Climb the obvious left-facing corner. The crack is fairly sustained in the 4" range, but there are several bolts en route to clip. There are several features on the wall that make the climbing easier than it appears. The final few feet feature some simple off-width moves. Climb through this and find the anchor to the right and below the roof. 5.10b
Rappel the route with one 70m rope. It might be possible with one 60m? It would be VERY close on the first rappel.
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