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Routes in Horseshoe Canyon

Animal Style S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bizatch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climbers Beware S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Comfortably Dumb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creepshow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagon Alley S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Human Oddity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncomfortably Dumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vacavillain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 1,945 total · 28/month
Shared By: Rough on Aug 18, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Wreckage Wall and Twin Towers are closed from May 2018 until further notice (probably through July) Details
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description [Edit]

This is one of the few routes that when holds broke it, it got easier. Start on a block leaning against the wall to a faint dihedral. Tackle the dihedral then up the slab above to the anchors.

Location [Edit]

Middle of the roundish wall to the left of the black pyramid feature.

Protection [Edit]

7 bolts

Photos

Rough
 
Rough  
 
I climbed this for the 1st time in 9 years today. Definitely deserves a 10C. A hard lieback move guards the square jug. From there it is a lot more thin, and good, then I remembered. It is like rediscovering Auburn all over again! Oct 13, 2012
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
  5.10c
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
  5.10c
Really well bolted! Crux for short people and tall people appears to be different Feb 22, 2015
Chasing Choss
California
  5.10b
Chasing Choss   California
  5.10b
climb this frequently and i am pretty convinced that this is one of the better 5.10's at auburn. this has cleaned up considerably since the first time i climbed it around 2012. great warm up, great bolting and almost nothing loose on this rig. Apr 18, 2016
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
  5.10c
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
  5.10c
This felt harder than Sneaky (10b) and perhaps even harder than Surf Tower (10c).

So 10b maybe a bit of a sandbag.

The rock quality is quite good. Apr 19, 2016
Brooks Ryan
Shenandoah Junction, WV
 
Brooks Ryan   Shenandoah Junction, WV
 
A high-step unlocks the confusing and blank feeling crux. An interesting and technical, if short, route. Mar 12, 2018
Nick Andrew  
 
Fun, thin, and tricky! The crux sequence was pretty stiff for .10c in my opinion, but maybe I was missing something. Well protected and pretty sustained! Bring slings if you want to set up a TR. There is a sharp groove just below the anchor that doesn't look like it would be nice to ropes. 1 day ago

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