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Routes in Horseshoe Canyon

Animal Style S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bizatch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climbers Beware S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Comfortably Dumb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creepshow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagon Alley S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Human Oddity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncomfortably Dumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vacavillain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 5,427 total, 29/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 15, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

Climb up the diheadral and then out onto a face. This is third bolted route from the left in Horseshoe canyon, and is one of the easier routes to track down. If you walk up the hillside to on of the 12's and look back, the top face sticks out quite well.

A good route with lots of interesting secitons for all abilities, and you may find a couple of the top bolts a little unnecessary. The top 20 or so feet is a cakwalk after exiting the diheadral.

I (5'9") thought this was a HARD 5.10a, because I can't reach the outside of the dihedral, unlike Jared (6'3"). The route became quite a balancing act for me, and seemed quite a different route to watch Jared climb.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos

Kim Harrison
  5.10b
Kim Harrison  
  5.10b
I was really glad I used a stick clip to reach the second clip before starting, because the first clip seems quite low to fall on and, as everyone has mentioned, the crux is right under the second clip. It seemed clean and well maintained. This is one of my favorite routes EVER!!! It has so much variation packed into a single climb: dihedral climbing, arete climbing, crack climbing. It is a very technical route, and I found it didn't need as much strength as observation and ingenuity. Definitely a highlight of the area. Sep 24, 2017
Fun route. I stayed in the dihedral until after the last bolt, it seemed a bit harder that way. May 18, 2016
Rough
 
Rough  
 
I like Dave's idea of the chain draw. I would move the bolt next time out there, but that might be a bit of time before that happens. Mar 31, 2016
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
Awesome! You rock. Mar 30, 2016
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
I will fix a chain draw next time I am out there, easier than moving the bolt Mar 30, 2016
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
So how many people need to comment before someone moves the second bolt? If rough doesn't mind next time I'm there I'll do it. Or he can. I'm not planning a trip there soon so anyone else who's capable pack a drill and fix it. Unless rough has an issue.

Looks like it's the second most popular route in the entire area after m and m Mar 30, 2016
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
  5.10b
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
  5.10b
Very fun route where you can/need to use stemming techniques. First bolt is easy to get to, but the second one is not reachable from the ledge under it if you are shorter than 5'10". I'm 5'6"/5'7" and even on my tip toes I was at least 2 inches from being able to clip the second bolt from the ledge (see picture). If you fall before the second clip, you'll almost certainly deck. Rest of the route is a great balance of scary and fun!
Mar 30, 2016
Liz P  
I agree with Vlad S. - I'm 5'2" and the second bolt was poorly protected. I had to stem out and then clip, but the feet aren't great. I fell on my first attempt and decked - twisted my ankle but no lasting damage. 5 min later I worked through it, so be careful if you're shorter and trying to clip the 2nd bolt. Once you're up it's a super fun and interesting route! Really rewarding - but a little sketchy through the crux. Just be careful because there's a chance of a fall from 10+ feet up. Feb 8, 2016
Y'all, there was a medical emergency at the Quarry yesterday with a hiker falling off a cliff. I abandoned some gear on Uncomfortably Dumb to go help provide first aid. If anybody sees a top rope anchor and two draws that we were using as directionals up there, I'd really appreciate it if you could take them off and send them to me. My email is avrendor12356@gmail.com. I'd owe you a six pack!

Uncomfortably Dumb was an awesome route! Oct 26, 2015
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
2nd bolt is a tough clip if you are short. A stick clip or a stiff draw is a good idea. Feb 23, 2015
Vlad S
  5.10b
Vlad S  
  5.10b
If the 2nd bolt was a foot lower and clippable from the ledge it would actually protect the crux of the route. With the first bolt 5 feet off the ground you essentially have to solo the crux, since if you blow it or the big jug/flake on the right arete gets any looser, I guarantee you - you will deck. Feb 23, 2015
Logan Swartz
Davis, CA
  5.10a
Logan Swartz   Davis, CA
  5.10a
It is not that scary so probably not worth the effort of changing bolts. My favorite route at the Quarry. Cool crystals and cracks on the top part. Nov 25, 2013
Colin Szehner
Oakland, Ca
5.10b
Colin Szehner   Oakland, Ca
5.10b
Pulled the cruz with a crazy high downturned right knee. Extreme value for .10a :| Sep 25, 2013
Nukem
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
  5.10b
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
  5.10b
agreed with sorting bolt placing down, seems like the bolts are close when you dont need them are the spaced where it seems a little scary Jun 12, 2013
tresa black  
 
I really liked this route. Total chick route!! No strength involved, just good technique...super fun thanks Aaron! Apr 23, 2013
cool corner - probably worth sorting out/moving the bolt placements down low??? Mar 27, 2013