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Routes in Horseshoe Canyon

Animal Style S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bizatch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climbers Beware S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Comfortably Dumb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creepshow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagon Alley S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Human Oddity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncomfortably Dumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vacavillain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 3,097 total, 49/month
Shared By: Rough on Oct 13, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

Start up a small scoop then break right to the left trending arete. Reach the ledge and pass the last bolt and the overhanging dihedral guarding the anchors.

Location

Far right route, just as your enter Horseshoe Canyon.

Protection

4 bolts and anchors.
Eric L
Roseville, CA
  5.6
Eric L   Roseville, CA
  5.6
Added a hook (spring link) the the left chain during the adopt-a-crag April 1. Right anchor bolt now hosts a hook bolted directly to the wall (not by me). Felt way better belaying my son off the wall with more than one anchor. :) Apr 20, 2017
Fun warm up, the right anchor is still loose but if it's been holding on this long I trust it (foolish? Maybe). Feb 17, 2017
Walt Barker
Reno NV
 
Walt Barker   Reno NV
 
".....These are not the 5.6 moves you are looking for..." Apr 18, 2016
The right-side anchor is quite loose (the bolt wiggles back and forth), and it appears that the bolt may never have set deep enough to fully engage the expansion anchor. Be wary of trusting this anchor. May 10, 2014
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.6
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.6
Fun warm-up, there is a good crimpy TR straight up the face left of this route. Apr 19, 2013
Mathew G
  5.6
Mathew G  
  5.6
Unless I was off route, 40 feet for this climb is generous, maybe 30 feet at most? Fun climb, but it's over very quickly. Jan 14, 2013
Michael Dorame
San Francisco, CA
 
Michael Dorame   San Francisco, CA
 
Being the 2nd person ever to ascend this route (After route setter Aaron of course) can I just say how classic the feel was. It was a nice easygoing sport route that required me to boulder quietly through the starting move and then after first clip it was a nice right leg up with a swing right on a comfy plateau-like surface. A little dusty after being set up anew wasnt enough to keep me from clipping teh next 3 routes. very straightforward, good feeling limestone, solid hardware, safe embedded bolts. I felt like I was king of the world at the top. Thanks Aaron for the belay. Great name.is this a Harry Potter reference?

look forward to more 2nd ascents :)

Cheers
Michael Dorame
www.meetup.com/Get-Your-Climb-On/ Oct 15, 2012