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Routes in Horseshoe Canyon

Animal Style S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bizatch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climbers Beware S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Comfortably Dumb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creepshow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagon Alley S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Human Oddity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncomfortably Dumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vacavillain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Steven Roth
Page Views: 744 total · 10/month
Shared By: Rough on Aug 18, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Raptors have left the quarry, all normal walls are open Details
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

Short but steep on large holds. Hard crux between 3rd and 4th bolt.

Location

Right of Animal Style and left of Uncomfortably Dumb

Protection

4 bolts

Photos

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Rough
  5.12c
Rough  
  5.12c
Sent by Steven Roth on October 6th. Nice job man! Oct 7, 2012
Steven Roth  
 
Thanks man! The area was really cool. Thanks for being so personable and telling us about Table Rock! Oct 7, 2012
Renaud
Boulder, CO
Renaud   Boulder, CO
Maybe I missed something (or maybe some holds broke since) but this route basically felt like a one move wonder after the 3rd bolt on slimy/grimy microscopic crimps to a good hold out left. It's like 10d to the 3rd bolt, then one V6 move and 5.10 finish.
One of the good holds broke when I climbed it yesterday (I'm not a big guy nor was I pulling on it like a mad chimp, so it seems like it was ripe for breakage). It's one of the 2 good holds you reach after the crux, but there's still one of them left right next to it, so the sequence/grade shouldn't be too different. Mar 23, 2014
kennethsime
Berkeley, California
kennethsime   Berkeley, California
I approached this climb with one goal: to be able to take the Black Diamond Neutrino that someone had left as a bail biner on the second bolt. I ended up making it the the 3rd bolt, but couldn't get past the crux. Unable to proceed, I unclipped as I climbed down.

It's not a pretty biner, it's not a new, shiny biner, but it's the first piece of booty I've ever gotten and I'm proud. Jul 22, 2015
Cave Man McElroy   auburn
Yeh this is like a one move wonder basically, kind of fun, and really easy to protect. Easy bolt clips for every bolt for me at 6'2''. Sep 30, 2015

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