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Routes in Horseshoe Canyon

Animal Style S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bizatch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climbers Beware S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Comfortably Dumb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creepshow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagon Alley S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Human Oddity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncomfortably Dumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vacavillain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,806 total, 10/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 15, 2002 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

A sustained 5.10a route featuring tons of varied holds and interesting moves.

This is the third route from the right on Horseshoe Wall, and is one of the more interesting routes on the wall. You get a pretty good view of the moves on the .11d to the right on your way up.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos

Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
 
Since the small flake jug after the 2nd bolt is very movable (I heard some people use it but I didn't), now the hardest part of this climb is the least bolted. Not that I'm complaining, just something to be aware of. Feb 22, 2015
Boriss
Sacramento
Boriss   Sacramento
It appears a large chunk of rock fell off just to the right the area between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. There are still a few loose pieces, but I think the route now climbs more like a 5.8-5.9. May 10, 2014
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.10b
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.10b
Now its the 3rd route over from the right.

Also.... The anchor on this climb needs to be fixed. The left low bolt is on a detached flake and the press link to lower off on is wedged and flipped upside down on the quick link that holds the two chains together making it so you have to lower on the thin side with the open end of the press link supporting your weight. I suggest removing the left low bolt anchor and replacing it up and to the right of the existing bolt in solid rock. The chains can just be hanging separate like all other climbs in the area that way you are depending on two separate pieces of gear to support your weight. If the FAist will allow I can fix the problem the next time I'm up there.

Rough?? Aug 9, 2013