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Routes in Horseshoe Canyon

Animal Style S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bizatch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climbers Beware S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Comfortably Dumb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creepshow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagon Alley S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Human Oddity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncomfortably Dumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vacavillain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Elevation: 934 ft
GPS: 38.915, -121.014 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,499 total · 99/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jan 20, 2003 with updates from Chasing Choss
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Wreckage Wall and Twin Towers are closed from May 2018 until further notice (probably through July) Details
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Horseshoe Canyon currently contains some of the tougher climbing in the Auburn Cliffs area, with routes up to 5.12c. This area is still very much under development, with new routes going up every once in a while.

The right side of Horseshoe Canyon itself is over 200 feet in height, though most of the current routes don't go any further than 75.

All existing routes in Horseshoe Canyon are bolted, though one climb should definitely be backed up with protection, as the bolts are not good.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Estimated apporach time from the parking lot: 21 minutes.

From the entrance to the Auburn Cliffs Valley, head past the Memorial Wall and Scale wall into the first canyon on the left. This is horseshoe Canyon.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Horseshoe Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 75
Comfortably Dumb
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 128
Uncomfortably Dumb
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 76
Vacavillain
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 20
Unknown
Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 32
Human Oddity
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 12
Animal Style
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Bizatch
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Comfortably Dumb
 75
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Uncomfortably Dumb
 128
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Vacavillain
 76
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Unknown
 20
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
Human Oddity
 32
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Animal Style
 12
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Bizatch
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Horseshoe Canyon »

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Photos

Really fun climbs here, but BELAYERS BEWARE! More than once I've see dinner-plate-sized flakes pop off towards the top on some routes... just pay extra attention, and don't stand directly under a climber. Sep 22, 2015

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