Access Issue: Raptors have left the quarry, all normal walls are open Details
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

Horseshoe Canyon currently contains some of the tougher climbing in the Auburn Cliffs area, with routes up to 5.12c. This area is still very much under development, with new routes going up every once in a while.

The right side of Horseshoe Canyon itself is over 200 feet in height, though most of the current routes don't go any further than 75.

All existing routes in Horseshoe Canyon are bolted, though one climb should definitely be backed up with protection, as the bolts are not good.

Getting There

Estimated apporach time from the parking lot: 21 minutes.

From the entrance to the Auburn Cliffs Valley, head past the Memorial Wall and Scale wall into the first canyon on the left. This is horseshoe Canyon.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Horseshoe Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 83
Comfortably Dumb
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 132
Uncomfortably Dumb
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 81
Vacavillain
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 21
Unknown
Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 37
Human Oddity
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 12
Animal Style
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Bizatch
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Comfortably Dumb
 83
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Uncomfortably Dumb
 132
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Vacavillain
 81
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Unknown
 21
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
Human Oddity
 37
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Animal Style
 12
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Bizatch
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Horseshoe Canyon »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: North

Mostly Shady All Day

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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Photos

Really fun climbs here, but BELAYERS BEWARE! More than once I've see dinner-plate-sized flakes pop off towards the top on some routes... just pay extra attention, and don't stand directly under a climber. Sep 22, 2015