All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Auburn & Grass… > Auburn SRA > Cave Valley (ak… > Horseshoe Canyon
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 61 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||(TR) Eric Kohl, FL: Aaron Rough & Vince Kramer|
|Page Views:||8,909 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||jared toettcher on Jun 28, 2003 · Updates|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details
Most of Auburn SRA is open from 7 am to sunset. Leave early enough to be off the trails before dusk. Most parking requires self registration fees in cash envelopes (or annual state park passes), and is enthusiastically enforced. Check the Auburn State Recreation Area website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=502 for current information. Note that the park's policy is that technical roped climbing is only permitted in the Cave Valley/Quarry area - outside the fenced private quarry at the back. Unroped climbing - aka bouldering or DWS - is allowed everywhere with a safe landing.
To find this climb, look into Horseshoe Canyon. You will see bolted routes on the right-hand wall (extending back towards the "horseshoe"). This climb follows the leftmost set of bolts on that wall.This climb has a little bit of everything. Start with an easy jug haul to a roof section involving an interesting, slopey hole. Continue, and enjoy a slabby/crimpy section followed by more vertical and overhung fun.There are primarily two difficult sections on this climb: the roof leading from the 3rd to 4th bolt, and the section from the 7th to 8th bolt. Footwork is very key.As is the case with many Auburn climbs (especially those in Horseshoe Canyon), there are some places where the rock is quite loose. Be careful!