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Routes in Horseshoe Canyon

Animal Style S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bizatch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climbers Beware S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Comfortably Dumb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creepshow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagon Alley S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Human Oddity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncomfortably Dumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vacavillain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: (TR) Eric Kohl, FL: Aaron Rough & Vince Kramer
Page Views: 5,503 total, 31/month
Shared By: jared toettcher on Jun 28, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

To find this climb, look into Horseshoe Canyon. You will see bolted routes on the right-hand wall (extending back towards the "horseshoe"). This climb follows the leftmost set of bolts on that wall.This climb has a little bit of everything. Start with an easy jug haul to a roof section involving an interesting, slopey hole. Continue, and enjoy a slabby/crimpy section followed by more vertical and overhung fun.There are primarily two difficult sections on this climb: the roof leading from the 3rd to 4th bolt, and the section from the 7th to 8th bolt. Footwork is very key.As is the case with many Auburn climbs (especially those in Horseshoe Canyon), there are some places where the rock is quite loose. Be careful!

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 ring anchor.
Chasing Choss
California
  5.12a
Chasing Choss   California
  5.12a
Dave, the bolts are solid, tested and proven by this mornings whip fest, nothing looked out of the norm to me. Aug 4, 2015
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
  5.12-
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
  5.12-
Though I've only done a few climbs at the quarry, this was certainly among the best...interesting debate about the grade too. I definitely felt this to be solid 5.12a - the roof crux at bolt 3/4 felt really tough to me and the rest of the route easier but sustained.

Regardless of grade it's an incredible route with improbable movements that just keeps coming at you, get on it! Mar 30, 2015
Vlad S
  5.12a
Vlad S  
  5.12a
It's all relative. Quarry is a pile of dirty choss that stays damp for a long time. Nothing better than 2 star routes here and that's a fact. Especially if you compare with the nearby areas (sugarloaf, phantom spires, calveras, yosemite). As for the best route comment - that's just my opinion. There are a few other 2 star routes here that are worth doing (just barely) and someone else might like a different one more. Mar 9, 2015
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.11d
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.11d
Have you climbed them all, Vlad? If not, bold assessment, my friend. Although, I do have to hand it to you for rating what you call the best route at the quarry only two stars. Mar 4, 2015
Vlad S
  5.12a
Vlad S  
  5.12a
Best route at the quarry! Feb 23, 2015
Renaud
Boulder, CO
  5.11d
Renaud   Boulder, CO
  5.11d
It was my first time at the Quarry and this route was my favorite of the day by far. I liked the variety between the steep sections on good holds and the technical balancy moves on thin crimps. The rock was also surprisingly clean and solid compared to other nearby routes.
I think it's pretty easy to screw up the sequence at the first roof so I could see the onsight being in the 11d/12a range.

In any case and regardless of the grade it's a great route and a must-do for the area. Mar 23, 2014
JSlack
5.11d
JSlack  
5.11d
Great route! Definitely the best thing we got on at ASRA.

The jug to the left of the sloping hole (1st crux) is now gone. A football-sized block came down while my buddy was pulling on it. It makes that sequence a bit harder, but the route is still pretty soft at 12a. Nov 25, 2013
AES
  5.11d
AES  
  5.11d
Fantastic route! Very diverse climbing makes this one a challenge - powerful early crux with some technical moves later on. Weighing the difficulty of the crux sequences against the very welcome full rest midway through, I would call this an .11d

Regardless of the consensus on difficulty, it seems that there is an obvious consensus on quality. This is my favorite route at Auburn by far. The roof-hole is totally badass, and the whole route is very well protected, so definitely worth a good burn for those looking for harder projects. Nov 19, 2013
Steve Montesanto
  5.11c/d
Steve Montesanto  
  5.11c/d
Awesome route. Definitely the best in the quarry at that level. Well bolted.

Really liked the crux move down low in a technical sense. The feet are insecure as you do it. Upper crux still felt enduro even with the rest.

Not 12a IMHO since I'm not in shape and got it clean 2nd try. When I was in shape I usually got 12a's 2nd or 3rd try. 11c/d seems about right.

Btw, I counted 10 bolts.....not 9. Jul 26, 2013
Rough
  5.12a
Rough  
  5.12a
Caliza, sounds good. It will be interesting to watch the consensus develop on this as more people climb it. May 11, 2013
Caliza
  5.11c
Caliza  
  5.11c
Like I mentioned before, I think it's an awesome line. It climbs very well with lots of fun movements and definitely would recommend the route to people if they happened to be in the area. It seems like now there are two 5.11c suggestions with the three 5.12a suggestions. I know a lot of people like to say that grades shouldn't matter; that it should be about the climb itself, but to me that's like saying that in swimming or running time shouldn't matter. In the aforementioned events the numerical value is associated with time and in climbing with difficulty, regardless of subjectivity. I have done a lot of climbing internationally on many different styles of rock. I just got back from a climbing trip in Spain, and as far as difficulty is concerned, Human Oddity is not harder than any 5.11c and definitely 5.11d in my subjective opinion that I did over there. It's a great route but no way 12a in my humble opinion. Too short with a great rest to be an endurance route and not cruxy enough for the suggested grade. May 11, 2013
Nukem
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
as per the tic mark comment, you can see every hold on the as you walk into the cliffs area, basically mapped out for ya like a gym. doesnt look like anyone has hit it with a brush for some time, on the first under-cling move, i nearly slipped off due to an absurd amount of chalk being on that thing! Apr 29, 2013
Rough
  5.12a
Rough  
  5.12a
Great points Dave and ones that are most likely attributing to some of the feeling in differences. Everything is a little more pumpy when they rock quality is in question. I know you know :) Apr 29, 2013
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Worth considering is that as these climbs get more traffic they feel easier. Much of the loose rock has cleaned up, and every hold is now caked in chalk. I last did Human in October, and all the subtle but easily visible feet had tick marks on them. I brushed the route on my way down but I'm sure it's all back. Much different than the first time I was on the route.

Also worth noting is that there are 2 ways to do the second half of the route. Straight up the bolt line is a shade harder and has a couple cool thin moves. If you go out left onto the juggy sidepull rail, reaching well right to clip, it is substantially easier. A letter? Who knows. Apr 29, 2013
Rough
  5.12a
Rough  
  5.12a
No worries Brennen. I didn't necessarily see any of the comments as spray. Just wanted to suggest using the designed feature to help understand consensus for the grade. For me to change the grade here and in the guide is a matter of seconds, but I will only do that after a consensus is reached. As of now there are four ratings: 12a x 3, 11c x 1. Doesn't seem enough to warrant changing anything as of yet. Apr 29, 2013
Nukem
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
thanks aaron for chiming in, i hope my comment wasnt one of the ones that was taken as spray, and if it was i appologize. no doubt this route is the best of the sac area, plus that is the best answer to any of the comments on here! Apr 29, 2013
Rough
  5.12a
Rough  
  5.12a
I will say what I have told several other people: When you go to Human Oddity, look slightly under the title of the route, it is says "You & This Route". Right below that is "Your Rating" and a blue text that says "change". I would recommend selecting the grade you feel is most appropriate and then feeling warm and special for being part of the process of determining a consensus. Please do this only after you onsight/redpoint it.

Climbing is subjective, simply put. My strengths are different than yours etc. I am not a gym climber, never had been, but Human Oddity is pretty close in nature to that style, so I would not be surprised to see the new crop of gym-raised climbers to cruise this line. It is what it is. To me, it doesn't change the quality of the route if it ends up consensus 12a or 11c.

As for the comment about .. "those who don't climb 12s often...", I have onsighted or redpointed over 50 12s up to 12d from pretty much every state in the west out to Colorado and New Mexico. There were plenty of routes I felt were soft, and plenty I felt were sandbagged. These include routes at pretty much every area in SoCal and most major areas in NorCal, Owens, Bword, Jailhouse, other Table Mtn crags, Cave Rock, Trinity Aretes, Natural Bridges, The Shredding, Smith Rocks, VRG and most other St George areas, Redrocks, Charleston, Rifle, Wild Iris, Sinks Canyon, Jack's, The Asylum, and Enchanted Tower to name a few.

I think the consensus grade is a pretty cool feature if used. But no, it isn't as cool as beating your chest in the comments section. Apr 29, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
  5.11c
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
  5.11c
I got the onsight without beta. Didn't even know what route it was.

It's soft for 5.12, but so is almost everything else at Auburn so considering, it feels about right. Apr 29, 2013
Nukem
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
^^
well then whatever you would call it then Apr 29, 2013
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
No such thing as an onsight with beta. Apr 29, 2013
Nukem
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
i do not onsight .12a and i felt this was a solid .11c as well, but.. like Aaron has stated it definitely is an endurance route, im not confident enough to say its not a .12a cus i dont climb that regularly, but i will say this was a good onsight (with beta!!) for me who is breaking into the .11+/.12- Apr 29, 2013
Vince Sugrue
5.11c
Vince Sugrue  
5.11c
I get the vibe that people who don't normally climb 12a would call this a 12a. In my opinion, comparing this to all of the other Bay Area Region 12a's, it isn't harder than an 11c. I got on it hoping to get a nice warmup out of it, and ended up getting the onsight. Considering my highest onsight grade was 11a prior to this, I feel confident in saying it is 11c. Great route, absolutely had a blast on it. But please, don't disrespect the 12a grade by throwing this gem in there. Apr 28, 2013
Caliza
  5.11c
Caliza  
  5.11c
Awesome line, reminds me a Mayhem Cove, definitely recommend it but no way is this a 12a. Crux is 11c and with a no-hands rest in the middle, not an endurance route and can fully recover from first crux. Top is a lil cruxy but no harder than 11a after a great rest. If the rest wasn't there I could see it going at 11d but not with the bomber rest in the middle. Just have to trust your feet and you can sail through it. Great route. Apr 27, 2013
Nukem
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
agreed, first overhanging lip and the cross over crimpy section at the top IMO. super fun one of the best if not the best route at auburn Mar 31, 2013
really good line. seemed like it had 2 cruxes - low and then high. Mar 27, 2013
Cave Man McElroy   auburn
One of the best climbs in auburn. Cool Sequence x 2 Feb 5, 2013
booster  
I deleted my comment regarding the grade, forgive the knee jerk spray. This was the first and only climb we got on. So, I have nothing to compare it to at the area. Great route though! Oct 29, 2012
Rough
  5.12a
Rough  
  5.12a
I would agree the crux sequence in and of itself is probably only 11c, however, this is an endurance route that isn't in the bag till you clip the chains. Given the endurance pump, I feel comfortable calling this thing 12a. I have climbed many 12as easier than this route, particularly short bouldery ones. I have power, I suck at endurance, maybe the opposite is true of you? Oct 28, 2012
Rough
  5.12a
Rough  
  5.12a
Initial anchors and TR ascent FA by Eric Kohl. Aug 19, 2012