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Routes in Horseshoe Canyon

Animal Style S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bizatch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climbers Beware S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Comfortably Dumb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creepshow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagon Alley S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Human Oddity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncomfortably Dumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vacavillain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 1,690 total · 23/month
Shared By: Rough on Aug 18, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Raptors have left the quarry, all normal walls are open Details
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

Start up the slabby ramp to the right facing corner. The blocks on the left are a little loose so be careful. At the top of the rounded slab go right to shared anchors with Vacavillain.

Location

Just left of Vacavillain and just right of Climbers Beware.

Protection

7 bolts

Photos

Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.8
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.8
Boy it sure would be lame if that big block popped! Apr 23, 2013
Jared-EMS
Sacramento, CA
Jared-EMS   Sacramento, CA
The blocks on the left are a little loose so be careful!
In my mind, a little run out from the last bolt to the anchors because everything is so loose something breaks under you, you are taking a huge fall. Aug 5, 2013
Taavi Kuusik
San Francisco, California
Taavi Kuusik   San Francisco, California
Some parts of the big block have already come down according to locals and the rest of it doesn't look very solid either. Make sure your belayer is not standing directly under it if you're planning to pull hard. Oct 14, 2013
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
 
It seems like the big flakes on the left could go any moment, and the top slab walk has tons of mud everywhere (and on every hold). Bottom was also all covered in water yesterday but I guess it could be better when dry. I went up to put TR on next route but wouldn't recommend doing this one by itself :( Nov 3, 2014
Walt Barker
Reno NV
 
Walt Barker   Reno NV
 
Those blocks are "WTF" creepy Apr 18, 2016
Nick Andrew
  5.8
Nick Andrew  
  5.8
The Bay Area Rock guidebook lists this route as 5.6 and I was relieved to see that it was rated harder here on MP. Thoughtful and techy 5.8 climbing throughout, but with a couple major drawbacks.. avoiding the loose block with the X marked on it makes for some awkward moves, and truthfully that whole flake doesn't seem too secure. (About halfway up). Also, the top of the route is a bit dirty and crunchy and you are a ways above your last clip. Finally there is a sharp groove below the anchor, so you need slings to TR and it is better to rap and not lower off.. some cool climbing to be had but maybe not worth the trouble. May 25, 2018

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