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Routes in Horseshoe Canyon

Animal Style S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bizatch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climbers Beware S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Comfortably Dumb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creepshow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagon Alley S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Human Oddity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncomfortably Dumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vacavillain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,248 total, 7/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 18, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

This route ascends the featured slightly overhung section of Horseshoe canyon, and is the shortest route on the wall. It is the second bolted climb from the left.

Climb up a really technical start to a dyno move after the second bolt, afterwards the climbing is easier until an interesting move near the anchors. Stemming out to the right in the crux is cheating!

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos

ascardaci
  5.12a/b
ascardaci  
  5.12a/b
Not knowing any beta for this climb, just the rating, I jumped on it. The start is thin with slopey crimps; takes some strong crimp strength and core. I moved my feet out way right near the second bolt where the supposed dyno is. I did not have to dyno, but it was a reasonably strong lock off.

My opinion is this: If a foothold is within reach of a key hold on the route, that foothold is not offlimits. This is outdoor climbing. I will try the dyno next time for the fun of it, but I think the rating should reflect the easiest way up the set bolt line. I'd put it at 5.12a/b.

I definitely had to get a little creative at the top! Overall a very fun route. Jun 29, 2015
Brian S
  5.12a/b
Brian S  
  5.12a/b
I started to the left which did not feel very technical. I stemmed out to the right at the crux and didn't have to dyno. Nov 25, 2013