Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Horseshoe Canyon

Animal Style S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bizatch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Climbers Beware S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Comfortably Dumb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Creepshow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diagon Alley S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Human Oddity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncomfortably Dumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vacavillain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Eric Kohl
Page Views: 1,311 total, 7/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 28, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

Climb up the large bulge in the middle of Horseshoe Canyon. This route is simple, with the exception of one really balancy move that heads across the bulge.

If this route really was meant to be climbed more, there would be a few more bolts on it, and also the rock would be cleaned in a very grand fashion.

This route is really really runout, and it is my opinion that a bad fall in the crux will probably cause the rock joined to the second bolt to come loose, cause you and it to come plummeting to the ground from 30 feet up. As a result, this route gets a VERY serious rating.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, shared withUncomfortably Dumb (5.10c). a couple of medium -small cams makes leading this route a little bitmore comfortable.

Photos

Hmmm...when i led this route i was really worried about knocking big stuff down on my belayer. I think that what Mike said is relevant and should be addressed. If there is a serious injury (or worse) here we may lose our privileges. Oct 17, 2013
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.10c PG13
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.10c PG13
A very large block has fallen off this route at the left side of the roof and the block/face above the roof now has a very large 8' crack in it that did not exist as of 9 months ago. The whole roof section would appear to be very unstable. Still a fun route, but be cautious and gentle with this route. Apr 19, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
Then add a bolt, it's your route. There's a place for bold and spicy and Auburn ain't it. Feb 18, 2013
This was one of the first routes we did at the Quarry. Although the climbing isn't very hard in the runout section both Josh and I kept thinking that if someone got hurt there (loose rock, bad fall) it could jeopardize access to the whole area. Something to think about at least. Feb 16, 2013
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.10c PG13
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.10c PG13
I've done this route a few times over the years, sometimes placing small gear in the flake between bolts one and two sometimes not. It always felt pretty comfortable to me as the climbing in that section is pretty easy, although the route is a little more heads-up protection-wise than other routes in the canyon. The climbing is pretty easy after the roof, so even though there are only two bolts in that 30+' stretch this climb always felt safe to me. I appreciate other climbers willingness to invest some time and money in retrobolting it, but seems nice to have at least a few more sporty routes at every sport crag. Additionally, I always traversed 4' left at the roof and climbed up the break. From the photo it looks like the poster went right a few feet at the same spot. Will have to try it that way also, still felt .10c going the other way as well. Oct 19, 2012
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
I did this route recently and I agree with Salamanizer. This is a fun route, and the only thing that needs to change is for that one bolt (second?) to be moved down and left a foot into solid rock. Or something like that. Sep 21, 2012
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
Make that second bolt bomber and leave the route spicy.

If permission to retro is given. Go minimalistic on the bolting and only eliminate any ground fall potential, but leave the runnouts.

Just my kneejerk opinion. I do agree, the last thing that place needs is someone getting seriously hurt when access is already on the fringes. Sep 21, 2012
Nukem
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
i spent a couple hours today cleaning the crux on this route and the crux on the 5.8 next to it, should be a little bit more clean! Aug 23, 2012
Rough
 
Rough  
 
More FA info coming soon. I am also asking if the FAist would mind if this route was rebolted / clean to bring it to a condition that is a little more in line with the area. Aug 18, 2012