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California
> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Auburn & Grass…
> Auburn SRA
> Cave Valley (ak…
> Horseshoe Canyon
Climbers Beware
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British X
Avg: 1.7 from 16
votes
Routes in Horseshoe Canyon
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Animal Style S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Bizatch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Climbers Beware S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Comfortably Dumb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Creepshow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Diagon Alley S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Human Oddity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Phantom of the Opera S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Uncomfortably Dumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vacavillain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 38.91522, -121.01422 |
| FA: | Eric Kohl |
| Page Views: | 2,586 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jun 28, 2003 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid
Details
Most of Auburn SRA is open from 7 am to sunset. Leave early enough to be off the trails before dusk. Most parking requires self registration fees in cash envelopes (or annual state park passes), and is enthusiastically enforced. Check the Auburn State Recreation Area website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=502 for current information. Note that the park's policy is that technical roped climbing is only permitted in the Cave Valley/Quarry area - outside the fenced private quarry at the back. Unroped climbing - aka bouldering or DWS - is allowed everywhere with a safe landing.
Description
Climb up the large bulge in the middle of Horseshoe Canyon. This route is simple, with the exception of one really balancy move that heads across the bulge.
If this route really was meant to be climbed more, there would be a few more bolts on it, and also the rock would be cleaned in a very grand fashion.
This route is really really runout, and it is my opinion that a bad fall in the crux will probably cause the rock joined to the second bolt to come loose, cause you and it to come plummeting to the ground from 30 feet up. As a result, this route gets a VERY serious rating.
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