Avg: 2 from 4 votes
Routes in Dome Rock
|Air Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Anti-Jello Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Arch Bitch-Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Arwen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Between Nothingness and Eternity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Close To The Edge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Direct Anti-Jello Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Good Samaritan, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Handycraft TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Just Barely T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Last Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Last Homely House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Left Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Old Man Quiver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Red Mushrooms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Sanitarium T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Tobin's Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Tree Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Vicious T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches|
|Page Views:||610 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Cunning Linguist on Sep 19, 2011|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionArwen is an old school 5.9 slab route with significantly less bolts than the Moser guide indicates.
P1 went on two pieces of gear, heads up to a bolted anchor (somewhat) visible from the ground (if you're looking pretty hard).
P2 starts thin and gets thinner, first (only) bolt at 20', then thinthin to easier moves and slightly left to the anchor. Random bolt clippable from anchor that has no apparent value visible here.
P3 steps left, clips bolt, then back right to a tight seam than offers gear at the top. Good gear under an overlap is followed by continuous, unprotected, thin black slab that gradually eases, again, bolted anchor is slightly left at the top, just underneath a larger overlap/small roof.
Last pitch steps left and follows shallow L facing corner to overlap (gear), then old buttonhead to 5.5 slabbin' to the walkoff. Good route, thought-provoking crux, but not much gear on the entire climb. Anchor at top of P3 is experiencing serious galvanic corrosion and is in need of replacement. All other bolts besides pro bolt on last pitch (not crucial, gear just below, no tough moves above) are solid. Runout but worthwhile if you're solid at the grade. AGAIN, *SEVERAL* of the bolts shown in the Moser guide are not on the route-heads up.
LocationStart in the neighborhood of 30 feet right of Tree Route, aiming for a left-trending swoosh. Anchor visible above if you look hard enough.
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