Avg: 3.4 from 5 votes
Routes in Dome Rock
|Air Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Anti-Jello Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Arch Bitch-Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Arwen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Between Nothingness and Eternity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Close To The Edge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Direct Anti-Jello Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Good Samaritan, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Handycraft TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Just Barely T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Last Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Last Homely House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Left Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Old Man Quiver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Red Mushrooms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Sanitarium T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Tobin's Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Tree Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Vicious T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Neil Carlos, Dick Leversee, H. and E. Laeger (1975)|
|Page Views:||2,236 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jun 18, 2006|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionWindjammer starts well down on the lower face of the Dome and takes one of the longest lines to the summit. On your way down you'll pass Tobin's Dihedral and then a large pillar/block that rests against the face. The face is obvious -- a sea of giant knobs and chickenheads. The remains of an old motorcycle are in the woods near the start.
P1: This is a unique and amazing pitch. Begin by lassoing an obvious knob 20' up with the rope (it helps to stand up on a block to do this), and then delicately TR through the crux, hoping the rope doesn't fall down, until you can sling the knob for pro. The line trends leftwards and has a fair amount of traversing. Pro consists entirely of slung knobs (although I did slot in a wire between chickenheads at on point). Three times on the climb I pulled up several armloads of slack and lassoed chickenheads above to protect the climbing. Simply unreal. Belay at a two-bolt anchor. 5.10 R.
P2: If my memory serves me, one continus up on slabby rock and then enters a beautiful lieback hand crack and follows this to the next belay. I believe there were a few old bolts (in need of replacement) protecting some slab moves on this pitch. 5.10 PG13.
P3: Continue up on easier, bolt protected, slab to any of a number of anchors on low angle rock below a long roof band. Scramble off left under the roof to the summit, or rap with two ropes. 5.9+ PG13.
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