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Routes in Dome Rock

Air Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anti-Jello Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arch Bitch-Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arwen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Between Nothingness and Eternity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Close To The Edge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Direct Anti-Jello Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Good Samaritan, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Handycraft TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Just Barely T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Last Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Last Homely House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Man Quiver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Mushrooms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sanitarium T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tobin's Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tree Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vicious T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Richardson, Leversee, Thompson, Row (1979)
Page Views: 1,818 total, 13/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 24, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

P1: A true sport route (as long as you don't expect solid, modern bolts). 7 bolts to a ledge with rappel anchors (for those wishing to retreat) OR 9 bolts to the original P1 belay. The crux is reaching the first bolt (10+). There are a few 5.10 moves to the second bolt, then the rest of the pitch is sustained 5.9+ climbing on delicate smears with the occasional thin edge. Sport climbers who plan to lower from the first anchor should consider top roping the left-hand variation past three bolts and a shallow crack (5.10c R/X) and "the Good Samaritan" (5.11+ PG13), a breath-taking exercise in friction on the right-hand side.

P2: From the higher anchor, P2 sets off through a series of small roofs (5.7, protected by three bolts, no gear) This section is not a sport route and feels significantly runout. Next, a large roof (small to medium gear) is encountered. Belay just above the roof from two bolts.

P3: Long, runout slab climbing leads to the top.

Location

This route is the obvious line of bolts and conspicuous series of roofs just to the right of "the Last Dihedral," a massive right-facing corner on the far south side of Dome Rock.

Protection

Standard rack, 7-10 quickdraws.

The first two bolts are 3/8" Rawls. Bolts 3-6 are 5/16" button-head compression bolts. The 7th bolt is a 1/4" buttonhead (luckily the climbing at this point is easy).
Juan Vargas
Bakersfield, CA
  5.10+ PG13
Juan Vargas   Bakersfield, CA
  5.10+ PG13
Pitches 2 and 3 are pretty run out but much easier and totally worth doing. To add to the description, there is another bolted anchor just below the roof on P2. If you belay here you'll either need to break the last pitch in two, or have a 70m rope to reach the anchors atop P3.

Overall a great route that felt challenging for the grade. Oct 10, 2017
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Climbing past the first two bolts on this route is feeling harder than ever. I climbed this route the other day and the holds seemed weathered. I actually would have said 5.10d or 11a. The remainder of the route still felt like sustained 9+.

Update: the new Needles guide by Christian Solem refers to this as 11a. Aug 24, 2008
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
According to the Mosher/Vernon/Paul guidebook, the first pitch originally sported just 6 bolts. Three newer bolts fill in the gaps, making the route one of the most tightly bolted on the Dome. A lower P1 anchor was also added more recently. Sport climbers should not continue to the original, higher anchor unless carrying 2 ropes. Jul 24, 2006