Avg: 3.6 from 228 votes
|Type:||Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||29,673 total · 173/month|
|Shared By:||Matthew Fienup on Jul 23, 2006|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
P1 (5.5, ~110 ft.): follow an obvious hand crack that heads right and then diagonals left to a large yellow pine. An excellent hand jam between the giant conifer and the rock allows you to pull past the tree and onto a generous ledge. From the ledge, climb a slab past intermittent cracks to the belay stance above a second, smaller pine tree. Belay takes 1/2" to 3/4"
P2 (5.6, 120 feet): truly classic for the grade! Jam and lieback an obvious handcrack. Look for excellent foot holds on the face to the left. The first 80 feet or so is sustained 1/2-3/4". Either carry extra gear of this size or leap-frog your gear up the crack with you. When this crack tapers and disappears, step left and follow intermittent thin cracks (TCUs helpful) to an obvious triangle shaped ledge/basin. Belay here (belay takes 2.5" to 3.5"--I often use two #3 camalots).
P3 (5.5, 110 feet): follow a large (4 to 5") crack, which eventually tapers and turns to a shallow, right-facing corner. Belay on an obvious ledge with three bolts.
P4 (5.6, 180 feet): the technical crux and truly memorable! Step off the belay ledge onto a delicate 5.6 slab. Clip a bolt and hope your feet stick. The slab eases and then gives way to a two-foot "roof" (protected by a bomber 2" piece). From here, the technical difficulties are over. A 3rd class slab leads for over a hundred feet to an obvious horizontal crack. Belay here (belay takes 1/2" to 1-1/2"").