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Routes in Dome Rock

Air Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anti-Jello Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arch Bitch-Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arwen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Between Nothingness and Eternity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Close To The Edge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Direct Anti-Jello Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Good Samaritan, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Handycraft TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Just Barely T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Last Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Last Homely House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Man Quiver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Mushrooms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sanitarium T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tobin's Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tree Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vicious T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 380 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tobin Sorensen
Page Views: 7,508 total, 74/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 11, 2009
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Eye-popping 200-foot tall dihedral.

P1 (5.10++, 160 feet): Fifty feet of endurance laybacking (with VERY slippery feet) leads to a no-hands rest out on the face. Eighty more feet of easier laybacking with excellent footholds leads to a class-4 trough. Belay thirty feet higher on a small ledge, where the class-4 section ends.

P2 (5.9, 120 feet): Continue up the dihedral to the top of the giant pillar. Runout face climbing leads up and left to a bolted belay. From here, easy fifth class leads to the top of the Dome. It is also possible to make two rappels down Between Nothingness & Eternity (two ropes required).

Location

Right smack in the center of the Dome. Unmistakable.

Aerial view of the Dome

Protection

On the first pitch, the crack starts 6-inches wide and slowly tapers to about 3/4-inch (the first fifty feet of endurance climbing is all 4-6 inches wide). The first belay takes 0.5-1 inch.

Evan Urton
Berkeley, CA
  5.10
Evan Urton   Berkeley, CA
  5.10
You can stem virtually the entire pitch, minus a body length or so in the middle and maybe the hands up high. Seems this one goes every which way. Jul 5, 2017
King Tut
Citrus Heights
King Tut   Citrus Heights
Done free solo on the FA by Tobin Sorenson (RIP) is the story I heard. Done long before cams, boys. FA 1976/77. Nov 22, 2016
busik  
Few left side in chicken wings and knee jams, hand-stacks and heel-toe all the way until it becomes hand-size with one #4, two #3 and some smaller stuff. Was moving number 4 above me in OW and hanging probably a dozen times. Felt hard, especially overhanging section in the middle.

1 #5 (not really necessary, only for first 3 meters), few #4 and one or two #3 should be enough to safely protect wide part. Sep 2, 2013
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
i actually found using OW technique instead of laybacking the start made it quite a bit easier. left side in, good heel/toe, then flip around when it starts necking down. actually did very little laybacking on this one. Aug 5, 2011
zwang
 
zwang  
 
one more note...the crack might be a bit less than 6 inches at the start because a new #6 Camelot did not fit and was not used. For the wide section I used 3 #5 C4's, 2 #4 c4's and felt very good about the pro. Especially the #5 that caught my fall :) Aug 4, 2011
zwang
 
zwang  
 
Offwidth technique isnt going to help on this one. Pure laybacking...On a side note, If you want to just do the first pitch it is possible to exit the dihedral near the top of the first pitch and belay from a bolted anchor. As the climb turns into the "4th class trough" step right around the corner and you will see three bolts that must be from the route just right of Tobin's dihedral. Keep in mind you will need two ropes to rap from here, but would allow you to set up a toprope on the first pitch. Aug 4, 2011
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
About halfway through the endurance crux, it is possible to stem across the dihedral on small knobs and to achieve a much-needed rest. Aug 11, 2009