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Routes in Dome Rock

Air Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anti-Jello Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arch Bitch-Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arwen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Between Nothingness and Eternity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Close To The Edge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Direct Anti-Jello Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Good Samaritan, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Handycraft TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Just Barely T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Last Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Last Homely House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Man Quiver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Mushrooms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sanitarium T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tobin's Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tree Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vicious T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,339 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Nov 10, 2008 with updates
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An arching splitter of unusual excellence and a convenient test-piece to prevent slab-induced muscle atrophy. The Hickey-Moser-Vernon guide supplied the name and rating for this route. That out-of-print guide describes Vicious as one of several short top-ropes close to the parking spot. A route this good has surely been led many times.

The crux is the start, liebacking left of the thin crack. After a middle section of splitter hands, a 5.10 traverse to finish.

A shorter, 5.9+, steep hand crack, can be found just west and might be a good warm up.

Aiding up the start a bit, to get in a top-rope piece for working the crux, is easy. To make the second placement free, so close to the ground, is the real-deal trad thing.

Convenient (bolt) anchor recently added.

Location

Located in the Amphitheater

Start at the gate on the road to the top of Dome Rock. When the road switches left, traverse right across the open hillside to the rim of the small cliff. The east facing crack is visible from the top. The easiest way to the base of the route was juggy, but exposed, third classing 100 feet east of the route. Maybe three minutes from the car to the down-climb.

Protection

Some small cams for the start and up to a #2 (gold) Camalot for the middle section. Saving a finger sized cam or two for the finish is advisable.
climberkalen
kern county, CA
climberkalen   kern county, CA
On Oct. 11-2016 I added two stainless steel bolts/hangers for top-roping or cleaning the lead. A double length sling reaches perfect, just pad the edge under your anchor with a shirt or something. Oct 11, 2016
Vicious takes great gear; easy to assess from the base. The crux is getting off the deck. A clean and pure line. I used two cordelletes for setting up the anchor, as gear options are set back aways from the edge. Jun 11, 2012
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Approach the Amphitheater by descending the class-2 hillside to the west of the routes. There is a little spelunking beneath and between massive boulders. Dec 8, 2008