Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,876 total · 18/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

Layback, undercling and face climb up the massive, right-facing dihedral for two pitches. While the massive dihedral looks breath-taking from a distance, all should be warned that various parts of the route contain massive, detached flakes or moss-choked cracks. Placing solid gear is impossible for large stretches of the easier portions of the route.

The physical crux of the route is climbing past positive edges on the first 10 feet of the route. After gaining the main dihedral, the route is mostly 5.4 with sections of 5.7. As alluded to, the psychological crux is climbing with non-existent or completely sketchy protection through several sections of the route.

Once atop the dihedral, on a large ledge, step left and either climb a crack up the headwall or rappel with 2 ropes from a tree. If continuing, belay from gear at a small, uncomfortable stance atop the next pitch. One pitch of easy, runout slab climbing leads to the top of the Dome.

Location

On the far south-side of the Dome, hard to miss

Protection

1/2" to 5", doubles (or triples) #3 and #4 camalots are useful.

The route also sports 2 lead bolts, both of which are 3/8" buttonheads. There is a bolted belay atop pitch 1 that consists of a buttonhead and a solid Petzl Longlife bolt.

Photos