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Routes in Dome Rock

Air Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anti-Jello Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arch Bitch-Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arwen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Between Nothingness and Eternity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Close To The Edge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Direct Anti-Jello Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Good Samaritan, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Handycraft TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Just Barely T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Last Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Last Homely House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Man Quiver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Mushrooms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sanitarium T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tobin's Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tree Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vicious T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,968 total · 17/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Layback, undercling and face climb up the massive, right-facing dihedral for two pitches. While the massive dihedral looks breath-taking from a distance, all should be warned that various parts of the route contain massive, detached flakes or moss-choked cracks. Placing solid gear is impossible for large stretches of the easier portions of the route.

The physical crux of the route is climbing past positive edges on the first 10 feet of the route. After gaining the main dihedral, the route is mostly 5.4 with sections of 5.7. As alluded to, the psychological crux is climbing with non-existent or completely sketchy protection through several sections of the route.

Once atop the dihedral, on a large ledge, step left and either climb a crack up the headwall or rappel with 2 ropes from a tree. If continuing, belay from gear at a small, uncomfortable stance atop the next pitch. One pitch of easy, runout slab climbing leads to the top of the Dome.

Location

On the far south-side of the Dome, hard to miss

Protection

1/2" to 5", doubles (or triples) #3 and #4 camalots are useful.

The route also sports 2 lead bolts, both of which are 3/8" buttonheads. There is a bolted belay atop pitch 1 that consists of a buttonhead and a solid Petzl Longlife bolt.

Photos

patrickpaul  
 
Matt N, I added this third pitch about ten years ago. I thought the route needed a direct finish instead of wandering up grooves to the left. Patrick Paul Dec 27, 2017
The undercling traverse at top of p1 is super cool... but you are standing on an enormous layer of exfoliating slab. All sorts of cams go in the crack above but they may not hold a fall. It's a fun route. Oct 24, 2013
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Atop the dihedral, we went right up a groove. A couple not great small placements and 5.7 face climbing leads to a bolt, then easier climbing past two more bolts to a two bolt belay in a scoop. Last pitch from here goes up with no pro to top out.

Fun route.

(edit) the second time on it, we went up the crack just left from the belay atop the dihedral (seems as described up top). Some gear, then runout face - didn't find a great belay so I traversed over to the bolted belay mentioned above. I preferred the other finish.

Didn't bring a #4 the first time, did bring one the second. Apr 8, 2013