Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: FFA-P1: Yaniro, Murley (1974) FFA-P3&4: Burrill, Leversee (1976)
Page Views: 15,385 total · 99/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 23, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

P1 (5.5): Start as for Tree Route. From atop the large Pine Tree, locate a 2-3" crack and follow it up and left. (Alternately, start on the bolted face to the left of Tree Route.) Belay from a shallow horizontal ledge at the start of a stunning finger crack.

P2 (5.9+ sustained): Truly classic!! Follow a left-leaning finger crack that arcs left along a clean slab. The crack starts as solid fingers and slowly tapers down to nothing. Take the time to find decent, sloping footholds out to the left. The crack takes many TCUs & small stoppers. As the crack tapers and disappears, face climb up and left to a hanging-belay from bolts.

P3 (5.10a): Step left and follow an obvious left-facing dihedral. As the corner curves to the right, the crack in the dihedral diminishes. The final 30 feet is the crux and requires small TCUs & stoppers. Belay from the 3-bolt anchor atop Tree Route's 3rd pitch.

P4 (5.6): Follow the final pitch of the Tree Route to a belay beneath an obvious horizontal crack.

Location

Approach same as Tree Route

Protection

Standard rack with extra TCUs & small Stoppers.
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10a
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10a
The second pitch is the single best pitch I've done for the grade! And one of my favorites anywhere.

A great variation is to climb P2 until the splitter finger crack ends, then follow an obvious 3-inch crack up and right to the second belay of Tree Route. Follow Tree Route to the top.

THANKS FOR THE CORRECTION! (see below) Jul 23, 2006
Isaac T.
Oceanside, CA
Isaac T.   Oceanside, CA
The 3 inch crack you mentioned for the P2 variation is more of a finger crack (at the beginning) and then widens to big fists. Also with a 70 meter rope you can belay from the ground and make it to the belay anchor at the top of the 5.9 splitter crack. Jun 23, 2008
Mike
Phoenix
  5.10a
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10a
A nice route! The second pitch is classic, and the crux isn't quite as hard as it appears from below. Aug 29, 2009
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
What are the bolts like at the bolted belays? Old buttonheads or what?
Thanks.

EDIT: Thanks Bryan. Nov 18, 2009
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The bolts are all bomber. Jul 19, 2010
Brian Paden
Goleta CA
Brian Paden   Goleta CA
Pitch 2 is beautiful. Gradually gets harder all the way to the end of the pitch. Be sure to bring some real small stuff.

The variation to the right after pitch 2 is aesthetic but disappointingly easy compared to pitch 2. Stick with the 10a bit on the left. Aug 29, 2010
Jebus H Bomz
Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Jebus H Bomz   Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Pitches two and three are so good. Pitch two is slippery feet along a locker finger crack that eventually disappears. My partner came up and asked if that was the crux. No, I said, that'd be the next pitch. The third pitch crux is thin, and I found myself pulling an exhilarating tips lieback to get through. This is stout, technical climbing for the grade; I haven't worked this hard for 10a in a long time! I couldn't recommend this climb more, especially for the ease of approach compared to the Needles proper. Sep 20, 2010
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10a
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10a
To add to what Bryan said, the bolts atop P2 are bomber 1/2" Rawls, replaced in 2012. The bolts atop P3 were replaced by the ASCA several years ago. May 30, 2011
Amazing. Sep 19, 2011
Jebus H Bomz
Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Jebus H Bomz   Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Right? Nov 2, 2011
G Frisby
Orange, CA
 
G Frisby   Orange, CA
 
climbed this a few weeks ago. the quality of this route cannot be overstated. pitch two is sustained and strenuous; nothing but tips for my big fingers. pitch three has two distinct sections: the first half is fun/easy to a generous rest spot right before the classic dihedral shown in the photos. the dihedral is ridiculously fun, with a nice opening for your fingers at about 2/3 through. Oct 12, 2012
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
Just have to talk up this route. 2nd pitch is just so beautiful and good. The 3rd pitch is pretty dang hard at the end but, yeah, easier than it looks. Definitely workin big time for a 10a though. It is usually very desperate for me. Last time my partner was workin the arete and made it look pretty casual. Unfortunately, one could bail out right at the beginning of it but don't you dare! Oct 4, 2013
limpingcrab
Visalia, CA
limpingcrab   Visalia, CA
Super great route, here are a few things FYI

-If the first pitch is clogged with tree routers there's a fun bolted variation just to the left. Walk a bit past tree route and follow a line of bolts (5.7/5.8ish) up to a bolted belay below the finger crack of p2 (you can use this belay either way and then you don't have to bring anything bigger than a #1). For more info click here.

-Bring LOTS of tiny stuff if you're a wuss like me, I ran out the first time.

-File your fingers to make them tiny Oct 20, 2013
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
  5.10a
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
  5.10a
Wow, wow, wow. This route is amazing. This is as good as anything in the Valley and other highly trafficked areas. P3 looks impossible to protect from below, but it's shockingly safe... Save a blue and yellow Metolius size, the holds (and gear) will appear. May 19, 2014
Cory Brooks
Fresno, CA
 
Cory Brooks   Fresno, CA
 
This route can't be given enough stars. So good. Dec 13, 2017
Mike Womack
Sherman Oaks, CA
 
Mike Womack   Sherman Oaks, CA
 
Super fun route! I didn't lead pitch 3, but I can imagine it would tough to protect the crux if 10a is around your limit. For that pitch and especially pitch 2, don't forget the small stuff. I brought doubles down to .1 BD and I was glad I did. Jun 19, 2018
Mark Fiji
Los Angeles, CA
  5.10a
Mark Fiji   Los Angeles, CA
  5.10a
That super thin portion just before the horizontal had me mentally crux’d! The feet are there, you might find some timed feet though(you’ll pop if you stay too long!). Those timer feet reminded me of a 10a slab route at Suicide

P3 really is just the tips!

A black alien couldn’t fit in there except for a few select spots. Found a spot for a blue Totem as well. It’s all there though, really good climb!

At the top of P3 the slab up past the bolt felt like it goes at 5.5 or 5.4 Aug 1, 2018