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Routes in Dome Rock

Air Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anti-Jello Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arch Bitch-Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arwen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Between Nothingness and Eternity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Close To The Edge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Direct Anti-Jello Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Good Samaritan, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Handycraft TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Just Barely T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Last Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Last Homely House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Man Quiver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Mushrooms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sanitarium T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tobin's Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tree Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vicious T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: FFA-P1: Yaniro, Murley (1974) FFA-P3&4: Burrill, Leversee (1976)
Page Views: 13,945 total, 101/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 23, 2006
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

P1 (5.5): Start as for Tree Route. From atop the large Pine Tree, locate a 2-3" crack and follow it up and left. (Alternately, start on the bolted face to the left of Tree Route.) Belay from a shallow horizontal ledge at the start of a stunning finger crack.

P2 (5.9+ sustained): Truly classic!! Follow a left-leaning finger crack that arcs left along a clean slab. The crack starts as solid fingers and slowly tapers down to nothing. Take the time to find decent, sloping footholds out to the left. The crack takes many TCUs & small stoppers. As the crack tapers and disappears, face climb up and left to a hanging-belay from bolts.

P3 (5.10a): Step left and follow an obvious left-facing dihedral. As the corner curves to the right, the crack in the dihedral diminishes. The final 30 feet is the crux and requires small TCUs & stoppers. Belay from the 3-bolt anchor atop Tree Route's 3rd pitch.

P4 (5.6): Follow the final pitch of the Tree Route to a belay beneath an obvious horizontal crack.

Location

Approach same as Tree Route

Protection

Standard rack with extra TCUs & small Stoppers.
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
  5.10a
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
  5.10a
Wow, wow, wow. This route is amazing. This is as good as anything in the Valley and other highly trafficked areas. P3 looks impossible to protect from below, but it's shockingly safe... Save a blue and yellow Metolius size, the holds (and gear) will appear. May 19, 2014
limpingcrab
Visalia, CA
limpingcrab   Visalia, CA
Super great route, here are a few things FYI

-If the first pitch is clogged with tree routers there's a fun bolted variation just to the left. Walk a bit past tree route and follow a line of bolts (5.7/5.8ish) up to a bolted belay below the finger crack of p2 (you can use this belay either way and then you don't have to bring anything bigger than a #1). For more info click here.

-Bring LOTS of tiny stuff if you're a wuss like me, I ran out the first time.

-File your fingers to make them tiny Oct 20, 2013
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
Just have to talk up this route. 2nd pitch is just so beautiful and good. The 3rd pitch is pretty dang hard at the end but, yeah, easier than it looks. Definitely workin big time for a 10a though. It is usually very desperate for me. Last time my partner was workin the arete and made it look pretty casual. Unfortunately, one could bail out right at the beginning of it but don't you dare! Oct 4, 2013
G Frisby
Orange, CA
 
G Frisby   Orange, CA
 
climbed this a few weeks ago. the quality of this route cannot be overstated. pitch two is sustained and strenuous; nothing but tips for my big fingers. pitch three has two distinct sections: the first half is fun/easy to a generous rest spot right before the classic dihedral shown in the photos. the dihedral is ridiculously fun, with a nice opening for your fingers at about 2/3 through. Oct 12, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Right? Nov 2, 2011
Amazing. Sep 19, 2011
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
To add to what Bryan said, the bolts atop P2 are bomber 1/2" Rawls, replaced in 2012. The bolts atop P3 were replaced by the ASCA several years ago. May 30, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Pitches two and three are so good. Pitch two is slippery feet along a locker finger crack that eventually disappears. My partner came up and asked if that was the crux. No, I said, that'd be the next pitch. The third pitch crux is thin, and I found myself pulling an exhilarating tips lieback to get through. This is stout, technical climbing for the grade; I haven't worked this hard for 10a in a long time! I couldn't recommend this climb more, especially for the ease of approach compared to the Needles proper. Sep 20, 2010
Brian Paden
Goleta CA
Brian Paden   Goleta CA
Pitch 2 is beautiful. Gradually gets harder all the way to the end of the pitch. Be sure to bring some real small stuff.

The variation to the right after pitch 2 is aesthetic but disappointingly easy compared to pitch 2. Stick with the 10a bit on the left. Aug 29, 2010
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The bolts are all bomber. Jul 19, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
What are the bolts like at the bolted belays? Old buttonheads or what?
Thanks.

EDIT: Thanks Bryan. Nov 18, 2009
Mike
Phoenix
  5.10a
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10a
A nice route! The second pitch is classic, and the crux isn't quite as hard as it appears from below. Aug 29, 2009
Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
The 3 inch crack you mentioned for the P2 variation is more of a finger crack (at the beginning) and then widens to big fists. Also with a 70 meter rope you can belay from the ground and make it to the belay anchor at the top of the 5.9 splitter crack. Jun 23, 2008
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
The second pitch is the single best pitch I've done for the grade! And one of my favorites anywhere.

A great variation is to climb P2 until the splitter finger crack ends, then follow an obvious 3-inch crack up and right to the second belay of Tree Route. Follow Tree Route to the top.

THANKS FOR THE CORRECTION! (see below) Jul 23, 2006