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Routes in Dome Rock

Air Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anti-Jello Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arch Bitch-Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arwen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Between Nothingness and Eternity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Close To The Edge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Direct Anti-Jello Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Good Samaritan, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Handycraft TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Just Barely T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Last Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Last Homely House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Man Quiver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Mushrooms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sanitarium T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tobin's Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tree Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vicious T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Any Judycki and Nuala Judycki
Page Views: 1,459 total, 13/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A few hard face moves up to a bolt (5.10a direct, or easier to the right) yield to easier climbing past widely-spaced bolts. The route boasts excellent rock quality and a striking line. There are two additional 5.9 cruxes which are both well protected.

Bolts appeared on this face within the last 2 years or so. Nothing is known about the first ascentionists, the route name, or its original difficulty rating. If you have any information, please post it below.

Location

50 feet left (and about 30 feet down) from the start of the Tree Route.

Protection

5 shiny, new lead bolts. Bolted anchor (neither shiny nor new...not great, actually) with rappel rings. The top anchor can be backed up with a 1.5 inch piece.
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
Fun start that makes Anti-Jello a hair more sustained. Jun 15, 2016
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
  5.8
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
  5.8
A better start to Anti-Jello, and fun, but pretty contrived. Apart from a 5.9 move at the very start (which can be made easier by stepping off a large flake to the right), I'd say the climbing is pretty standard 5.8. It can be rapped or TR'ed with a 60 m. Aug 13, 2013
Tacky anchor next to a perfect 2"-3" crack, contrived crux that is easily moved past on the right, crispy small edges-not a classic for sure and pales when compared to its 4/5 star neighbors. Other than convenience to get a few more feet of climbing in and a quick rap, I wouldn't reccommend this one. Sep 19, 2011
Schiffhauer
Bakersfield
Schiffhauer   Bakersfield
...Also makes a good first pitch to Tree Route. May 10, 2010
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
This is an AWESOME first pitch alternate to Anti-Jello. From the bolted anchor, head straight up into the classic tips crack.

The route is also a useful diversion while waiting in line for the Tree Route. Oct 14, 2009