Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Any Judycki and Nuala Judycki
Page Views: 1,615 total · 13/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

A few hard face moves up to a bolt (5.10a direct, or easier to the right) yield to easier climbing past widely-spaced bolts. The route boasts excellent rock quality and a striking line. There are two additional 5.9 cruxes which are both well protected.

Bolts appeared on this face within the last 2 years or so. Nothing is known about the first ascentionists, the route name, or its original difficulty rating. If you have any information, please post it below.

Location

50 feet left (and about 30 feet down) from the start of the Tree Route.

Protection

5 shiny, new lead bolts. Bolted anchor (neither shiny nor new...not great, actually) with rappel rings. The top anchor can be backed up with a 1.5 inch piece.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.9
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.9
This is an AWESOME first pitch alternate to Anti-Jello. From the bolted anchor, head straight up into the classic tips crack.

The route is also a useful diversion while waiting in line for the Tree Route. Oct 14, 2009
Schiffhauer
Bakersfield
Schiffhauer   Bakersfield
...Also makes a good first pitch to Tree Route. May 10, 2010
Tacky anchor next to a perfect 2"-3" crack, contrived crux that is easily moved past on the right, crispy small edges-not a classic for sure and pales when compared to its 4/5 star neighbors. Other than convenience to get a few more feet of climbing in and a quick rap, I wouldn't reccommend this one. Sep 19, 2011
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
  5.8
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
  5.8
A better start to Anti-Jello, and fun, but pretty contrived. Apart from a 5.9 move at the very start (which can be made easier by stepping off a large flake to the right), I'd say the climbing is pretty standard 5.8. It can be rapped or TR'ed with a 60 m. Aug 13, 2013
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
Fun start that makes Anti-Jello a hair more sustained. Jun 15, 2016