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Routes in Dome Rock

Air Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anti-Jello Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Arch Bitch-Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arwen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Between Nothingness and Eternity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Close To The Edge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Direct Anti-Jello Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Good Samaritan, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Handycraft TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Just Barely T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Last Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Last Homely House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Man Quiver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Mushrooms T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Sanitarium T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tobin's Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tree Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vicious T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,453 total · 38/month
Shared By: Thomas Laursen on May 11, 2015
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

One of the recommended moderate routes on Dome Rock. A thoughtful traverse, OW/chimney, and face climbing complete the three pitches.

P1: Begin with the first few moves of Tobin's Dihedral, then traverse right along a horizontal finger crack. (Be sure to protect your second here!) Left Crack takes the first hand/finger crack up, while Arch Bitch-Up continues right around a no-hands step. Climb the outside face along the wide right crack, passing a fixed piton early and ending at a bolted anchor. 5.8

P2: Continue following the wide crack up, using wide pieces and slinging a few knobs until reaching a nice ledge. Continue up the flaring chimney and belay on a ledge with a large bush. (Optional variation: Traverse right before the chimney and face climb past a bolt, traversing back left above the chimney. Caution for rope drag.) 5.7

P3: Climb directly up the face, slinging a knob and clipping a bolt before reaching the large flake. Ascend the flake with a tricky dismount, then continue on the face past a bolted anchor. A significant runout on relatively easy face takes you to the anchor directly above. 5.8

Walk off left and up to the top of the dome.

Location

Begins in the obvious Tobin's Dihedral low on the East Face of Dome Rock.

Protection

Single rack. Thinner pieces (down to .5") protect the traverse, wider pieces (up to 4") protect the crack. Slings for knobs.
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.8
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.8
A superb route. Lead this route with SSCA crew in 2003. Fun traverse and semi-grunty P2 start. Feb 17, 2017
Ryan Cox
Clovis
 
Ryan Cox   Clovis
 
The P2 off-width has a 20+ foot section (approximately 40 feet above the anchor) that is difficult to protect with a #4 Camalot, as it is quite tipped out and will want to walk. Worth it to bring a #5 Camalot or a #1 BigBro for this section. Jul 24, 2017

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