Avg: 2.9 from 23 votes
Routes in Dome Rock
|Air Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Anti-Jello Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Arch Bitch-Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Arwen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Between Nothingness and Eternity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Close To The Edge T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Direct Anti-Jello Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Good Samaritan, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Handycraft TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Just Barely T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Last Dihedral, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Last Homely House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Left Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Old Man Quiver S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Red Mushrooms T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|Sanitarium T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Tobin's Dihedral T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Tree Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Vicious T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Windjammer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||4,351 total, 38/month|
|Shared By:||john durr on Jul 13, 2008|
|Admins:||Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionAn excellent sustained moderate crack climb. It looks wide and ugly from below, but is actually 2 pitches of excellent hand and finger crack climbing. Follow Arch Bitch-Up 5.8 to top.
Pitch 1: Left Crack starts at Tobin's Dihedral. Stem/lieback the first move of Tobin's to reach a horizontal thin crack. Traverse the crack right 30' (crux) and follow the crack as it curves upward to form a wide looking (hand size) vertical crack to a bolt/rappel anchor, 5.8 - 120 feet.
Pitch 2: As you follow the moderate hand crack up it diagonals left after a prominent ledge. Option A (recommended) is to follow this crack past the ledge to join the top of Tobin's and continue the nice dihedral to the top of a pillar (gear anchor 1-3" cams) 5.7 - 100 feet. Option B at the ledge traverse about 15 feet right, ascend a short bulge to reach an easy bushy crack left of Arch Bitch-Up to a tree belay 5.8 and spooky - 90 feet. Option C at the ledge follow the crack left about 10 feet up to a wide spot and face traverse up and right to reach the easy bushy crack and belay at the tree 5.8 and spooky - 90 feet. If you did option A, move the belay down and right 20 for the next pitch, easy 5th class.
Pitch 3: Follow the last pitch of Arch Bitch-Up past a slung knob to a bolt, head up and left big knobs to a weird ear / lieback. Bizarre and fun maneuvers past the ear (gear 0.5 - 3" cams) lead to a bolt belay / rappel station, continue past one more bolt and an easy runnout to another bolted belay, 5.8 - 180 feet. Walk off or easy 5th class left then up to the top of the rock.