Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: . ffa jim dunn
Page Views: 1,342 total · 13/month
Shared By: john strand on Apr 6, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

If you are doing the 5.10 cracks under this, you may as well fail on this! After the midpoint anchor, climb a hard stemming groove thing. Then climb a hard sideways wide crack.

Location

Up above the twin finger cracks. You'll see it.

Protection

Good gear some fixed. Take some wide. Should have a fixed anchor, if you get to it.

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9 Comments

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Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11c
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11c
The Beast is such a classic route, quite reminiscent of chimneying out West.

The anchor, though, is messed up. At the end of the crack, we had to traverse about fifteen feet left across a vertical garden to reacher the Cerberus anchor. That's all we could find up there. This would be a candidate for a (gasp!) new bolted anchor just up and right of the end of the chimney. Apr 7, 2010
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
FA. Paul Ross ,George Myers 1972. FFA first pitch.James Dunn 1977 Apr 7, 2010
john strand
southern colo
  5.11+
john strand   southern colo
  5.11+
Damn it, i knew as soon as I did this that Meyer was on the f/a. Sorry Apr 7, 2010
Erik Eisele
Erik Eisele  
No need to add an anchor to the Beast, just use the bolted anchor on the first pitch of Recompense. Above the chimney are a couple of manky pins — after backing them up, step right onto the slab and climb the groove. It's probably 5.7 or 5.8 to the anchor. It could use some cleaning but the climbing isn't bad. From there you need two ropes to rappel; have your second tag up the rap line. Apr 21, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11c
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11c
I'm surprised it took this long for someone to chime in suggesting that The Beast doesn't need an anchor. Erik, how far do you head up the groove before you get to the Recompense anchor? Apr 21, 2010
Erik Eisele
Erik Eisele  
It's probably 30 or 40 feet of climbing beyond where you would cut left to reach the Cerberus anchor. You can get a couple pieces of gear. It's a bit exciting covered with lichen, but if it was clean it'd be fine.

A well-stocked normal rack plus one number six Camalot or Friend is perfect, by the way — you don't need any other big gear because the crack in the back of the chimney takes nuts and small cams. Apr 21, 2010
hasan Adil
portland,me
hasan Adil   portland,me
"you may as well fail on this!" makes no sense in a route description. 1) It's not that hard 2) It's pretty well protected 3) That's an opinion not a fact. Jun 9, 2012
john strand
southern colo
  5.11+
john strand   southern colo
  5.11+
My description was relating to the initial 5.10 cracks. May as well try the 5.11 while your there. I would say that the climbing above the anchor is pretty hard compared to the start. Jun 9, 2012
M Bageant
Los Angeles, CA
M Bageant   Los Angeles, CA
My party bailed from the tat anchor on the Beast Flake this past weekend due to rain and landed right at the start of the Beast 666. We spent the afternoon working on the left finger crack up to the anchor, since it was totally sheltered from the rain. Way harder than it looks (hint: footwork!) and fun if you're in the area! It started seeping pretty bad as the rain soaked into the rocks, though. Jun 13, 2016