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Routes in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area

AP Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alcove Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beast 666 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Browns Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cerberus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Effigy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Energy Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lower Refuse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maid in the Shade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
On Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T A3
Welton's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whack-A-Mole T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildabeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Loran Smith Spring, 1986
Page Views: 622 total · 9/month
Shared By: Edge on Nov 3, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Edit]

This is the route starting just right of AP Treat, next to the stone steps accessing the Prow Area. Begin on a shallow arĂȘte leading to cracks and flakes which bring you to a stance under the final shallow corner. Climb the corner past a bolt (not present on the FA) to the top and a shared tree belay with AP Treat.

Location [Edit]

Below the start of the Prow on a 50 foot high slab. Welton's Corner climbs a shallow inside corner via cracks and flakes about 20' right of AP Treat.

Protection [Edit]

Small to mid sized stoppers and cams and one bolt. The bolt was added 21 years after the FA, which used a tied off long dong piton in the crack below the present day bolt.

Photos

Edge
Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
Edge   Between Nederland and Boulder,
 
This route is written up in the 2012 Handren guide as "By the Way" 5.10a with a FA attributed to George Hurley and Mike Kahn, July 4, 2007.

The actual FA was done by Loran Smith in Spring of 1986 after a brief cleaning on rappel, and was repeated later that same week by Mack Johnson and Loran Smith who both graded it 5.9. The present day bolt was presumably placed in 2007, but originally the upper corner was protected by a long dong piton which I carried as a cleaning tool which was pounded in 1/3 length and tied off.

Named after Welton Pearson, potato & dairy farmer, Celtics fan, and my grandfather, who died the week before. Nov 3, 2012
jim.dangle    
I reckon this is more difficult (harder 5.10ish) if go straight up the slab rather than heading left onto the arete near the top. Basically follow the direction of rope in the pictures.

It's a decent variation.

Jim Jul 17, 2013

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