Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: FFA Aug. 1979 Ed Webster and Jeff Achey
Page Views: 879 total · 31/month
Shared By: Andy Casler on Jun 29, 2019
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

The full route. A link up of "Wild" and "Women in Love" that spans from the bottom of Cathedral to the top. Described by Handren as "a very strenuous and sustained route, one of the classic hard crack climbs on the East Coast."

The FFA of Women in Love is a classic example of the race to free aid pitches in the late 70s. Visiting Mark Hudon and Max Jones (who nearly FFAed the Salathé Wall on El Cap) asked Webster if the top of Women in Love could go free. Webster lied, saying that the headwall was impossible to free climb -- “smooth as a baby’s bottom.” He then quickly enlisted Henry Barber to free the top pitches. As they were working the last pitch, Hudon and Jones saw them from the ground and steamrolled through the lower pitches. They caught up with Webster as he was following Barber (who dislocated his shoulder during the send, but popped it back in mid-climb) on the final pitch. Hudon slapped at Webster’s heels as he and Jones completed the route’s second ascent. Webster and Achey completed the full "Wild Women" route one year later.

Start on the route, "Wild"

P1. (11b) Start with easy moves up a right facing corner and quickly reach a big ledge. From the ledge, climb straight up a discontinuous finger crack. Traverse right at the roof (crux, finger-sized cams helpful) and end at a bolted anchor on a sloping ledge.
 
P2. Climb up easy ledges with very few options for protection. This will lead you to a choice. (10R): Follow the dihedral to a bolt, then climb above it, being certain that you won't slip off. Bypass variation (5.7): Skip the R-rated climbing by escaping left onto the Barber Wall ledge and then traverse back right.

End on a sloping ledge below the beautiful first pitch of “Women in Love.”

P3. (12-) The prettiest pitch on the route and some of the best climbing. Work your way up the pearly white granite crack, which constrains to thin finger locks and two unforgettable mono-locks. End at a sloping ledge.

P4. (11b/c) Continue up the funky, right-leaning crack system to a v-grove. Step right and climb just above the Beast Flake to reach a fixed anchor below a small roof.

P5 (12-) Climb above the small roof. Clip a strand of black static cord that's fixed to a bolt and follow small edges out left around the arete. Follow pitons up the layback flake that leads to the top of the cliff.

Location

Follow to trail up as if you're walking toward The Prow/ Recompense. Follow a faint trail left just before a slippery rock in the middle of the trail and reach the Beast Alcove entrance. Start just left of the Alcove entrance.

Protection

Single rack to No. 2 Camalot. Doubles from finger sized to No. 1 Camalot can be helpful.

Photos