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Routes in The Beast Alcove and Refuse Area

AP Treat T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Alcove Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beast 666 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Broken Bones (aka Piledriver) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Browns Fist T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cerberus T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Effigy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Energy Crisis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lower Refuse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Maid in the Shade T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
On Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Reincarnation (aid), aka 0.6 (free) T A3
Welton's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whack-A-Mole T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Wild T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wildabeast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Henry Barber october 1st 1972
Page Views: 1,397 total, 11/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 23, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

I really enjoyed this climb. The only downside was its somewhat short length. If it had another pitch on top of this one it might get a little more credit. I'd say its best attributes were nice jamming interesting moves and the best knee-bar I've found at Cathedral, right where you would want it in the crux.

Start up the obvious corner and in to some nice cracks to the awkward roof crux. There is a direct version that heads straight up and out the roof; however, you can traverse under the roof somewhat strenuously past the knee-bar that I love so much and on to a nice stance. A few more crack moves lead you to the first belay on Lower Refuse.

Continue up Refuse or lower off of the thread anchor (which was a bit tattered as of this post).

Location

Brown's fist climbs the big corner capped by a roof in front of you as you hike up the trail.

Protection

I found a regular rack up to #3 cam to work fine but bigger stuff could be used if that's your thing.

Photos

nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  5.7+
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  5.7+
If you break right before the roof it is 5.7. If you go through through the roof it is definitely .9+. It is a little intimidating and old school, so the rating will feel harder. Try the direct funhouse start for and .8 and I think grading wise it makes sense. Did you climb culprits too? Great one or 2 move light .10 Aug 11, 2013
Ryan Nelling
  5.9+
Ryan Nelling  
  5.9+
We went over to do this as a warmup and let the rush hour on Funhouse dissipate - let me advise you that this is not a good warmup route if you're a 5.9/5.10 leader! Funhouse is definitely 5.7....Brown's First is definitely NOT 5.7+ Later on our trip, we bumped in to a local guide who said it's more like 5.9. I found Pine Tree Eliminate, Hotter Than Hell, and Inferno all to be easier than this climb.

The corner looks awesome from the ground, but I quickly found it to be more difficult and awkward than I expected. I led the first 40 or so feet to the bolts under the roof and came back down - so I can't comment on the rest of the route. Aug 9, 2013
try 9+ if not using the ledge and definatley at least 8 if using it. Nov 14, 2009
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
We were crowded off the lower left wall this weekend and ended up here. There was little chalk and lots of cob webs, but it was pretty fun. The knee-bar is indeed cool. Sep 28, 2009